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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Other Crafts Wendy Cevola 9/22/17 Glazing of the last 12 mugs.
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Wendy Cevola 9/22/17 Glazing of the last 12 mugs.
Beachbumz
Grand Member (first year)  

Joined: Jan 09, 2008
Posts: 1091
From: Kihei, Maui
Posted: 2012-01-03 12:07 am   Permalink

Wendy, didn't I tell you no more falls!! I really hope your feeling better!
This one is going to be AWESOME... Cant's wait to see it finished...
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 6938
Posted: 2012-01-03 08:38 am   Permalink

Hi hang10tiki last night I ran into a photo I have of you and I said hi.
Thank you Beachbumz I just posted on your thread, love all your work. My black eye is such a fashion statement but I'll try to be more careful.

Time for revelations and more photos. The last set showed us pour the mold piece for the top. Here comes the bottom.

We flipped the mug over keeping the top in place.

Again I ran a ring around it using a bit more moisture to make the seal better.

After placing the sheet around the ring I rolled out a snake of clay and pressed it inside sealing the sheet to the ring. I used the tool to make the lock dents.

This should have worked perfectly but after the plaster was poured in I decided to lift it up and down and to tap it so bubbles would come to the top. As shown that's the best way to make it start to leak.

So I squeezed harder to stop it. I held it until it was firm.

Here's the mess AGAIN! But no harm done just extra work to pop it off.

Popping and repairing until its all off.

Because all this popping leaves rough edges I removed the top and bottom.

I used a rasp to remove the rough edges. It was that moment when I realized I'd left out one important step. The top piece needed a hole or no one would ever drink from this mug!

Later on when we do mold number two I'll show you what I should have done. However all is not lost. We made a hole with a drill bit used by carpenters to make openings for attaching door knobs.

Here is the bottom with all the extra plaster.

Here are the bottom and top after rasping them smooth.

I soaked the sculpt to remove clay that had stuck. Plaster comes off easier.

Then I searched for any damage and repaired it.

Repairing means less clean up when mugs are poured.

Now I'm happy with the sculpt being ok again so on to the next step.

I put the top and bottom mold pieces back in place. I ran a small amount of clay around to make sure the seal is good. I didn't want plaster to leak into the space.
Next I choose a board that will be the bottom piece for the mold box.


Now it's time to get ready for our Pasadena guest. More photos tomorrow.

Comments are always welcome. (: Wendy
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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7167
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2012-01-03 09:45 am   Permalink

Great to watch your progress
Looks fun
Keep on keepin on


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 6938
Posted: 2012-01-04 08:16 am   Permalink

Hey hang10tiki here goes keepin on...

First we put down the bottom board and find the right size sides. We get out all the clamps that we will need.


Using soft clay I fill in all the cracks along the pieces.


The two ends are not really holding the sculpt so I put down bubble wrap just in case the sculpt drops out. We carefully lower it in and then use pieces of cardboard to lock it in place firmly.


I do not remove the bubble wrap I just start building soft clay around the sculpt until it has covered all the parts I do not want to mold in the first piece. I remembered where I had the clay lines at the tikis shoulders.


Once I've got it built up I smooth it tight against the tiki and then press in the ball locks. Only press in about 1/3 of the ball. Too deep and they will break off.


I brush on the mold soap and then soak up the excess with a few paper towels. I do this 2 or 3 times. Mold soap is poison so wear a mask and gloves or do not touch it.


There is always soap left in the deeper portions so I use a straw to blow it out. I don't think it matters but just in case.


Wear a mask or the plaster dust will harden in your lungs and never go away.

Figure out how much plaster you will need to cover your sculpt and be around two inches thick. Put water in a deep bucket. Start your mixer and start adding your dry plaster. Keep adding and mixing until it is like buttermilk. Do this fast the plaster sets up quickly.





I like to stick my hand in and rub the plaster into my sculpt and to make sure there are no dry lumps. I can break them up if I feel them. This is hard on the skin so get it off as soon as possible.


Dan goes out to wash off all the tools and I run out there to get hosed off.


Then I run back in and smooth the top with my favorite kitchen tool. In a few minutes I will carve into the top a 1. This is not for the side its for mold number 1.


The garage is a mess and will be until we finish.


This is a mom day so off we go. See you tomorrow. Wendy
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little lost tiki
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Joined: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 7748
From: Orange,CA-right near the Circle!
Posted: 2012-01-04 08:34 am   Permalink

DANG!
YOU ARE PROOF THAT HARD WORK YIELDS FORTH GREAT TREASURES!
Lovin that Zombie Torch mug,Wendy!


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 8651
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-01-04 10:19 am   Permalink

Wendy, I missed yesterday's post! Thanks for the progress reports, looking forward to the next installment
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Professor G
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Joined: Sep 03, 2011
Posts: 346
From: the Tiki Wastelands
Posted: 2012-01-04 1:15 pm   Permalink

This is amazing to me. All florid prose and odd metaphors aside, I am absolutely fascinated by this whole process.

 
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tigertail777
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Nov 25, 2004
Posts: 679
From: Oregon
Posted: 2012-01-04 11:11 pm   Permalink

Man Wendy I love seeing your in progress shots, and this zombie mug/torch looks like it is going to be a hit out of the ballpark. Makes me wish I had room for mugs in my little habitat. Thanks for posting all the great in progress pics it is always so fascinating to see other artist's techniques. I will look forwards to watching further progress.

 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 6938
Posted: 2012-01-05 09:43 am   Permalink

Hi Fellows, its such a joy to hear from you.

Little Lost Tiki your brain is a national treasure, I am loving all your new paintings on gallery. It is super hard work but hopefully in the end it worked and I'll be able to make this mug. I'm so happy you like it.

MadDogMike I need more photos on your thread. How's the axel coming? It's time for more beautiful clay work from you.

Professor G I too am fascinated that this is possible. I hope that in showing all my errors that it will help someone be able to jump in and have perfect molds.

tigertail777 looking back over this list of friends who cheer me on I am thankful for each new person I meet this way. You are one of them. I enjoy watching you make art too.

More step by steps and another error.

One step I left out yesterday involved the rubble mallet. When pouring the wet plaster into the box bang the sides so that all the air bubbles will rise to the top. I bang one side and then the other. I was moving fast and once during this process banged my finger. There are so many ways to get hurt during mold making so be careful.

The third piece has been poured and it is time to use the rasp to clean it up and then to flip it on its back.

I removed the bubble wrap and here's how the clay looked.

I put the box back in place. Added more clay smoothed it out, added the impressed ball locks and painted a couple of layers of mold soap. I removed the excess soap and it ready to have the plaster.

Remember about adding the plaster to the water to mix. Well we tried the reverse. It made the plaster start to set just as we were pouring it into the box. I couldn't get any air bubbles out and immediately I could tell this wasn't going to work.

Being an optimist I mixed a small amount of plaster and covered the rough top just in case. Plaster will fuse to plaster. Without mold soap you would never get pieces apart. It's so easy to forget that I try to keep the mold soap next to the box at all times.

Sad that so much work was going to be thrown out we closed down for the night.

The next morning we took the mold apart. this shows the clay and cardboard at one end of the mold. The mold piece is 2 inches thick and most is hidden by clay. To understand look at the next photo. Clay is placed so the the top of the mold will be even and not dip where the cardboard is placed.

Even though I was sure the slab would be tossed I rasped the sides so that it would sit on the table. I would leave it in place until I poured the two side pieces. That way the bad slab acted as the clay and saved me some time.

Each clay slab should be solid. Looking at the side I could see horrible air bubbles. It's better to have the plaster be too wet than too dry. This will never work.

We turned the mold on the side and I dug out the clay to expose the sculpt.

Paint with the mold soap twice and wipe. Remember its poison don't touch it and wear a mask.

Wearing a mask we mixed the plaster and poured it. I was short a bit of plaster. It's best to keep all sides at the same level so mix too much than too little. Have a waste box to put excess in for disposal.

By now the mold and box are super heavy and my metal table is starting to cave in.

I used some 2 X 4's to support the weight.

After it set about 30 minutes the plaster feels very hot. We again removed the box and flipped it over. Painted it with mold soap.

Mixed and poured the plaster.

Smoothed it out with my kitchen tool.

Here it sits setting up.

We are now ready to remove the bad piece and toss it in the garbage along with a empty plaster bag. We use high quality plaster. The difference is $8 to $30. This $30 plaster is dental stone and will keep the detail better though all the casts.

Removing the bad plaster slab which had pieces breaking off as I handled it I can also see where there were leaks.

I took off the other two side slabs and cleaned the edges carefully. I only removed the leaks. I also cleaned up my sculpture.

Mixed and poured.

Cleaned up for the fourth time. Plaster will harden anywhere so don't leave it on your tools or body.

Let it set.

Removed the box and cleaned the edges with the rasp.

We are now hopeful that we have one working mold. Next up making a mold from this mold and the original sculpt that is still inside of it.

Now it's time to take down all the Christmas Decorations and store them for next year. I Made the tree and post covers out of chicken wire and string lights. They go up in 15 minutes and come down even faster.



Happy New Year, Wendy





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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7167
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2012-01-05 10:03 am   Permalink

Wow
You are a machine...awesome


 
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WestADad
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Mar 31, 2009
Posts: 746
From: Tornado Alley
Posted: 2012-01-05 10:12 am   Permalink

More amazing progress pictures! Sorry about your hand, I hope it heals without complications.

Chris


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 8651
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-01-05 8:17 pm   Permalink

Opening that new mold will be like opening a present - how will it turn out? Good I hope Hope that knee is doing OK?

 
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Chuck Tatum is Tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: May 12, 2011
Posts: 1674
From: Southern Cailifornia
Posted: 2012-01-05 9:31 pm   Permalink

That's a hell of alot of work, no wonder I avoided getting into Mug making
Thanks for the step by step.


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 6938
Posted: 2012-01-06 08:34 am   Permalink

hang10tiki isn't there an athlete named the machine? I do know how to work hard and I'm very organized. Most of all I have the best partner in the world. Dan hates making molds but he does it because he loves me and my art. He works for tikis. I couldn't do all this work without his help.

WestADad you are such a dear heart. The bruise is gone and so is most of the tenderness. We always get banged up making molds.

MDM it is so scary and so much fun to open the mold and to see if the work you did was good or not. It's a ways off.

Chuck my photos don't even show half the work. So many parts generate hazards. We are constantly cleaning the table tops and the floor to keep dust from entering our home. Breathing it now would give us lung disease in the future.

I'm going to post all the photos for the second mold right now. Here goes the rest of the moldy story.

Using my favorite kitchen tool to make lots of clay snakes to plug cracks.


To make a second mold you just remove one piece and re-pour it. Then you go on to the next piece one by one until every piece is new. Once again I'm prepping with the snakes.


Poured the side and when the plaster was semi hard I carved in a 2 for second mold.


Oh no! I forgot the mold soap. I kept my fingers crossed that there was enough left over from the first time that it wasn't going to all fuse and ruin the first mold. I was very lucky. A few of the round locks broke off. So I just carved them out. If I didn't then the mold piece we removed would not fit because its locks still existed.


I kept putting the mold together until it fit. Now it was time to make another piece and to use mold soap every time.


Now I filled any gaps that existed between the mold and the sculpt. You hope you don't have these because more clean up of poured mugs will be needed but if there is a gap you have to go with it the best you can.


Ready to pour. Remember to pound the sides of the box to get out the bubbles.


Poured and waiting to have a 2 carved into it..


The first piece on the first mold I forgot to make a hole. We had to drill it out. It's much easier to make the hole out of clay. make the size and shape you want and put it in place.


Paint with mold soap twice and blot.


To celebrate New Years day I decided to break my resolution to not fall and hurt myself. Here's Dan in the room with me as I waited for the doctor to come in.


I had plugged in a shop vac to suck up extra soap bubbles. I plugged it in then I turned and tripped over the cord. I came down like a log and hit my forehead on the concrete floor. Here's lookin at ya!


So with banged up ankles, knee and head we went back to work. After the plaster set I used a rasp to level all the sides so that when we turn it over it would sit flat.


When the plaster has set remove the plug. Don't let it stay in there and dry because it will become hard and difficult to remove.



The last piece is poured. Hurray!!


Using straps we checked to see if we could take the mold apart and put it back together again.


Dan swept then mopped the floor while I went in to put my feet up.


Later we took both molds apart and put each piece on top of boards and started a fan to blow on them. It takes a couple of weeks to dry them out. You must dry them completely the first time so that the plaster will retain its detail for your casts. After this it's ok to pour each day. Some artists who like their work thin will do more than one a day. I like thick mugs so I will do just one set per day. the mold needs to completely dry between casts so that it is able to pull water from the slip.


So while these dry I'm going to start sculpting for new Resin Chunk Lamps for Roge. There's never a dull moment. I'll start posting those photos tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing this part of the journey with me. The next leg of the trip will be when the molds are dry. Cheers, Wendy
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 8651
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-01-06 08:40 am   Permalink

Hey Wendy. It's hard to judge scale in photographs, but did you make the top and bottom pieces of the mold thicker than 2 inches?
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ATTENTION MEMBERS! If you take the TC War Canoe on a head hunting party, be sure to remove the decapitated bodies before returning it. See club bylaws for more details


 
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