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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Other Crafts Wendy Cevola 12/11/17 I thought up a helpful hint for clay projects.
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Wendy Cevola 12/11/17 I thought up a helpful hint for clay projects.
danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7041
Posted: 2016-05-22 08:57 am   Permalink

hang10tiki oh no. That's just too horrible to do to a friend. I remember the movie The Fly. I can honestly say this picture makes me shudder!

===================================

SACRAMENTO CRAWL MUG more step by steps.


I decided it was time to do the bottom. I am making 60 crawl mugs with another few glaze tests/artist proofs but I will not destroy the mold until I have used it 100 times. That way I can alter it for Wishes. Example: change the bar name, town, alter the tiki. So this year instead of just saying it I put /100 on the bottom.


Next I added another strip of bamboo to the side of the tiki. This photo doesn't have the bamboo finished.


I decided to do some "pineapple" texture around the tiki and lettering. Now I'm committed to glazing this inside area in yellow.


I added more clay to the top and then I will add a bamboo strip.


Tiki area is now done.


The Tropics area is now done.


Here's the completed side.


Next I went to work on the top. I made enough pieces for the entire way around.


Next I started to add them from the top down.


I used my wood tool to smooth and to shape them.


The top will NOT look like this. I have plans. After I cast these I will cut and hand form the clay into the shape I want it to be.


One more large side to go...the pineapple side.

Cheers, Wendy






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hang10tiki
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Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7369
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2016-05-22 6:48 pm   Permalink

This is a great step by step Wendy
Awesome


Just noticed
Almost 500 pages of sweetness



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Worst sound ever, slurp of an empty tiki mug through my straw!!!


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7041
Posted: 2016-05-23 09:30 am   Permalink

hang10tiki looks like we all have written a book. I get messages from those who have read it and are working on their first mugs. My goal achieved but I'm not ready to stop. I have so much more to share.

========================

SACRAMENTO CRAWL MUG 2016 THE SCULPTING FINISHES WITH THESE PHOTOS.

Now it was time to start on the pineapple's surface.


I did all the lines in one direction using a piece of paper.


The I turned the paper and went back in the other direction.


Done.



Using this tool I started to work to bring in the side of each square.






Next I filled them in with more clay and then smoothed it into a mound.


Now I added more clay and


shaped it.





The last clay is added and shaped.





I also turn my sculpts upside down to finish them off.


I make sure there are no areas where plaster can run in and lock when making the mold. I added texture to each area.


I hope you think it looks like a pineapple from the backside.



Here are all the sides completed. The top will greatly change once it is cast and I re-work it.
























This is many days worth of work. My hands wouldn't tolerate working this hard clay for more than a couple of hours a day.

It was great to get to this place and to know I can make the mold. That's going to be next.

I guess you can see why I start in January to get the crawl mug finished by October.

Cheers, Wendy




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Moai Mike
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Joined: Feb 19, 2012
Posts: 47
Posted: 2016-05-23 11:54 am   Permalink

Aloha, Wendy! I just to make sure I am on the list to get one of those beautiful crawl mugs! I thought I sent a message but I can't find the list to see if I am on it or not. Looking forward to seeing you and Dan at TO. We got a room at the Crown Plaza!

 
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hang10tiki
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Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7369
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2016-05-23 4:06 pm   Permalink

Wow
Amazing detail
Awesome

Did I say wow


 
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MaukaHale
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Joined: May 07, 2012
Posts: 756
From: The base of the Volcano
Posted: 2016-05-23 9:30 pm   Permalink

Wendy,

You really made it work this time, that pineapple mug is another amazing piece of art.

I finally found time to read your magazine from the guess the number of pictures contest.




[ This Message was edited by: MaukaHale 2016-05-23 21:46 ]


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7041
Posted: 2016-05-24 09:12 am   Permalink


Moai Mike thank you for calling that to my attention. You were on the paper list just after Tikitastic. I have now placed you in the proper spot right after his name.

hang10tiki I love that reaction. That was one crazy hard sculpt.

MaukaHale that's a wonderful photo. I've studied the room. Where are you?

=========================

Back later.

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Moai Mike
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Joined: Feb 19, 2012
Posts: 47
Posted: 2016-05-24 10:22 am   Permalink

Thank you, Wendy!

 
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zerostreet
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Joined: Feb 06, 2010
Posts: 2234
From: http://www.zerostreet.com
Posted: 2016-05-24 10:41 am   Permalink

Amazing detail on that mug Wendy! Great job!

 
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MaukaHale
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Joined: May 07, 2012
Posts: 756
From: The base of the Volcano
Posted: 2016-05-24 7:08 pm   Permalink

Quote:

On 2016-05-24 09:12, danlovestikis wrote:

MaukaHale that's a wonderful photo. I've studied the room. Where are you?




Its my home tiki bar - "The Aloha Theater and Tiki Bar,"

http://www.tikiroom.com/tikicentral/bb/viewtopic.php?topic=42941&forum=20&178

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"People are like islands. You have to get close to them to know what they are about."
~ Adam Troy


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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7041
Posted: 2016-05-24 8:59 pm   Permalink

MaukaHale I'm glad to be reminded. I forget to check those home bar threads. I know hang10tiki has one and so does lunavideogames. It's been awhile since I ran about looking at so much fun stuff TC has to offer.

===================================

SACRAMENTO CRAWL MUG IS READY TO MOLD.


It's a job just to set up the garage with all the supplies it takes to make a mold.


I measure the mug so that I can choose the right size pieces of wood for the box.


Dan and I assemble the box.


First I made a 2 inch thick bottom using soft plastic blocks I bought at ToysRUs. They can even be cut with a serrated bread knife. Then I measure to make sure I can pour 2 inches above the mug using this box.



Dan makes snakes for sealing the joints.


If I can't find the pieces I need I start cutting some to fit.


Next I start putting blocks in place around the tiki and at the top and bottom. These are areas that will not be part of the first mold slab.


I cut pieces of clay into slabs that are around 2/3rd's of an inch and start laying them out on top of the blocks and I press them into place.


Since I don't want clay to fill in any of the texture on the pineapple side I protect the sculpt with plastic wrap.


Then I cover the wrap with clay right up to the mug.


Close up.


Once this is done and all the snakes are in place to make the box sealed I press in dips/locks. Those will keep the mold pieces from shifting.


One last step is to take a wet paper towel and to smooth all the snakes and along the mug. This makes all the seals tight.



Now that the prep is done It's time to mix the plaster. PUT ON A FACE MASK AND WEAR IT THE REST OF THE DAY. THE AIR WILL FILL WITH INVISABLE PLATER DUST THAT WILL GO INTO YOUR LUNGS AND TURN HARD. YOU DO NOT WANT EVEN A SPECK INSIDE OF YOU. I figure out how much volume it will need just by looking. I fill a bucket and then place the plaster next to the bucket. I scoop it in and Dan mixes. 2 of plaster to 1 of water.


Every so often I have him stop so I can dip in my hand to see it it's right. This is too thin so I add more plaster.


I love to watch


the mug disappear


under the plaster.


Last drop.


Every time me mix everything has to be cleaned so that there isn't hardened plaster adhering to each tool or bucket.


When the piece is hard I carve in the words to identify it.


All this for the first slab. Cheers, Wendy








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[ This Message was edited by: danlovestikis 2016-05-24 21:21 ]


 
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hang10tiki
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Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7369
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2016-05-25 12:01 am   Permalink

Love this part
Wait
Love all da parts


 
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cy
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Joined: Mar 10, 2011
Posts: 1431
From: Gresham, Oregon
Posted: 2016-05-25 2:05 pm   Permalink

Fantastic sculpt Wendy!!

 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7041
Posted: 2016-05-25 9:03 pm   Permalink

hang10tiki and cy I love reading messages like those. Thank you.

====================================

SACRAMENTO CRAWL MUG 2016 BEING MOLDED. PART TWO: one piece has been made, now I will make two at the same time.

I took the box apart.


I used a rasp to smooth the edges. You can do this with the backside of a knife and it works just as well.


I forgot to take photos. We put straps around the blocks and slab and flipped it over and then removed them.


I took the blocks off and put them away.


Then I peeled the clay layer off and


saved the clay by putting it into Tupperware type containers. I also sprayed it with a bit of water to keep it moist.


I noticed that I had not centered the sculpt. I want the sides of the mold to be the same so that the water is pulled from the slip the same amount.


So I made sure the sculpt didn't get moved and the debris was kept from it while Dan sawed off the extra along the line I'd drawn.


Done without a problem.


We are still wearing our masks. This photo shows how the dust stays in the air for hours after we have mixed the first plaster. This is not on my lens it is the flash hitting the floating particles that we do not want in our lungs.


Next I cut a piece of foam to cover the writing on the bottom of the mug.


I used a roll of tape to hold it in place until


I could build up the clay to cover this area. The shape of this mass of clay is important because it will be removed later and the hole will be the last mold piece.


Now I covered the blocks with clay. When this is removed this area becomes the open top where the slip is poured into the mold.


To make the two side pieces I must build not only the top and bottoms but I must build two dams to stop the plaster and to make the tops of the pieces thick.


All done.


Next I do 3 or 4 (4 is better) layers of mold soap. MOLD SOAP IS POISON. Wear gloves or be very careful not to touch it to your skin. It requires a face mask but you should still have it on.


Between each layer I gently wipe it dry.


Now the box is placed around it and the snakes are sealing the pieces.


We mix the plaster after I estimate how much we will need. Then it is poured into one side


and then the other side.


All done and now it sits. As soon as there is standing water on top I know I can scoop out some plaster to make the locks.


The locks are done.


Plaster is fragile so you don't want any thin edges that can deteriorate or easily break off. So if I see an area that is thin I will trim it off. Then when the next piece is poured it fills in this area and I have a stronger mold. All these little pieces must be removed before the next piece is poured.


Phew, that's a lot of posting for an evening. I need to go read a good book. Good night, Wendy

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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7041
Posted: 2016-05-26 8:15 pm   Permalink

SACRAMENTO CRAWL MUG the last two mold pieces are made. Step by step.


To make the next mold piece I again do 4 layers of mold soap keeping it off of my skin and continuing to wear my mask. One thing about masks is that you can wear them a few times before discarding. However you need to take them into a clean environment and let them dry out before putting them in a protective plastic bag. If you don't dry them first they will grow mold.


Each layer of mold soap is blotted dry. Now I ready to mix the plaster and then


to pour it into the box.


I noted were the level of the plaster should rise to in order to give me a 2 inch mold piece. You can make the pieces thinner to save money however if your mold leaks it's more work to deal with and I prefer not to have to worry about that, the slip will dry before it reaches the outside when you have seams that are 2 inches wide.


It sits for about 45 minutes before you can take the box off and


smooth the edges.


Next I put straps around the mold and turn it on end so the bottom is exposed.


This is the last piece to complete the mold. 4 layers of mold soap and blotting. I also made little dams to prevent the plaster from running along these crevasses which would make them stick together.


Now the plaster is poured in until it almost runs over the dams.


Once it is solid I remove the clay dams and rasp the entire bottom so that all pieces will sit on the counter top. This makes putting it together or taking it apart easy.



My hero/husband Dan cleans up the mess after we finish making a mold. You should sweep or vacuum because of the dust hazard so while wearing a mask he mops the garage. I had him take off the mask so I could show off his smile.


Before I take the mold apart I chisel around the bottom piece. I've found this prevents chunks from breaking off.


I make heavy molds. Dan turns it on the side so


I can use my vegetable choppers to knock the pieces apart.


One by one the pieces are taken apart.


I didn't have any problems.


No undercuts so I didn't lose any of the plaster.














It was during this time that I also dried out the Big Bowl mold.





I used a block to lift the pieces off the table to help them dry. All the other pieces are rotated every day.


It took 2 fans running 24/7 for two weeks to completely dry out this mold.


The plaster must "set" to become a mold that will allow you to cast 100 plus items. To set the plaster you must DRY it Completely.

So there you have it from start to finish. If I didn't explain something well enough please just ask me the questions you have and I'll do my best to help you out.

Cheers, Wendy

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