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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Other Crafts Whystler's WIP Thread (cannibals printed and based)
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Whystler's WIP Thread (cannibals printed and based)
swizzle
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Joined: Jun 03, 2007
Posts: 838
From: Melbourne,Australia
Posted: 2012-07-11 9:02 pm   Permalink

Personally i like them all, except the painted one.
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Whystler
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Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-12 3:07 pm   Permalink

Quote:

On 2012-07-11 20:08, Gene S Morgan wrote:
Good detail. One question, is there a hole all the way through the center of the model? If that is true it could have a chord pass through it like an oversized bead. Just a thought.



Oops! Sorry Gene, I didn't see your question until now. And thanks for your compliment!

There is a hole through the centre of the model, and this was actually for the reason you mentioned. But then I found that the pendant didn't lie forward always against a person's chest since the piece is cylindical.

One idea, that MadDogMike had, was to flatten the back, and I was going to take this suggestion at first. But then I realized if I put a horizantal hole through the sides, towards the top, and threaded the cord latterally, then the pendant would lay sitting forward always. So I did this instead.

-Whystler

[ This Message was edited by: Whystler 2012-07-12 15:08 ]


 
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Whystler
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Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-12 6:41 pm   Permalink

Hey hey,

Here's the cannibal tiki head, in a few different sizes, printed and base coated with ivory spray paint. From left to right .. I started with a very wide one and didn't like how stretched it looked, especially the skull. So the next one, I went the opposite direction. By the third one, I found a happy medium. The fourth one is just a copy of the 3rd, even though it looks bigger because its a little closer to the camera.



-Whystler

[ This Message was edited by: Whystler 2012-07-12 18:42 ]


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7253
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-07-12 7:22 pm   Permalink

I like 'em Whystler. It will be good to see them antiqued so you can see the detail
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Whystler
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Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-13 09:53 am   Permalink

Here is one painted with a tan colour and antiqued.



I was thinking of painting the teeth white with a blood red skull sometimes, and other times making the teeth yellowed or blood red with a white skull...

-Whystler

[ This Message was edited by: Whystler 2012-07-13 15:03 ]


 
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MadDogMike
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Joined: Mar 30, 2008
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From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-07-13 4:51 pm   Permalink

That shows the detail nicely. I vote for the brown cannibal and a white or ivory skull & teeth. Maybe some liquid frisket on the skull after the base coat?
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Gene S Morgan
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Joined: Jul 18, 2011
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From: Midwest the navel of the USA
Posted: 2012-07-13 7:31 pm   Permalink

I went back a reread this whole thread. I'm starting to understand things a little better. I have a couple of questions ... (of course)

The models I get back from ShapeWays are rougher than my digital scuplts. I kinda like that for now, but do you think it has to do with the material or the layer thickness? Your's look quite smooth and you mentioned that you went from .3mm to .2mm in your layering. Is is possible that they are using a coarser layer. You said you had used ShapeWays. How did theirs compare to what you can do on your own printer?

I noticed you were using Krylon interior/exterior spray paint. Did you come up that by experiment? We hand paint ours with brushes and have been thinking that the brush strokes are showing too much and we should try spraying. Do you use a clear spray after antiquing?


On the ShapeWays forum they often talk of hollowing out the model to reduce the cost. Do you do that. I must admit I don't quite understand hollowing. I have tried to sculpt on a plane and extrude the plane thickness, and those always get rejected by ShapeWays as unprintable. I would think that would be similar to hollowing .... Sorry for all the dumb questions ... It's not often I get to question someone who actually knows what he is doing .... Thanks Gene


 
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Whystler
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Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-14 08:33 am   Permalink

Quote:

On 2012-07-13 19:31, Gene S Morgan wrote:

Sorry for all the dumb questions ....



Never a dumb question they say - and they are right! I'll see if I can answer a few things for you, but first - a question for you: What Shapeways material are you ordering your pieces made with? That will help me answer your questions about roughness/layering.

re: smoother on my printer? Shapeways materials can, by far, be a lot smoother than what I can do on my printer. I would have to find out what material you're ordering and then I can probably recommend a better choice for you.

Re: krylon spray paint - I have been painting models since I was quite young and learned that it's always good to put on a "primer" coat of spray paint before you do any brush painting onto plastic because paint applied by a brush is then more likely to adhere nicely to a primed piece. The spray paint option ensures that you get an even coverage on your primer coat.

In my case, doing a primer coat also helps to reduce the ever so slight translucency of the ABS plastic I print with. If you hold a fresh piece pre-painted piece up to the light, you can see a glow through. This is disastrous when you brush paint on, because the light shows all the paint strokes from within. Priming it with spray paint totally seals out the light.

I would recommend a prime coat on shapeways plastics too, just for the best adhesion of later paint.

re: clear coat after ... I haven't done very much of a varnish coat like this because I use a brand of acrylic paints called "patio paints". They are meant for things that can go outside and be weathered a bit. They are more resistant to water, sunlight, and wear. Plus, these paints have a nice smooth finish that is great for painting on and brushing off the antiquing glaze.

re: hollowing - yes, hollowing is definately a good skill to have for larger pieces. However, for your pendant pieces it wouldn't be so useful. Since you don't have a lot of volume as it is, you wouldn't be able to get rid of much internal volume anyway and still retain a 2mm - 3mm wall thickness. Many Shapeways materials required a 3mm wall thickness. Some can handle less .. as little as 1mm *but* then you are left with a very fragile model that feels cheap and is not particularly stable - easily cracked.

I have not used the program that you use, so I can't suggest a good way to hollow in that program. But I can tell you two ways I can hollow in 3d studio max. (1) Imagine if you have a sphere... and then you make a slightly smaller sphere and embed this into the larger. There are boolean tools in Max that will allow you to subtract the smaller sphere from the larger. (2) There is also a shelling function in Max that you can use to create an inner or outer shell on your model. This works best on simpler models.

Again, let me stress that for a small piece like a pendant, hollowing is not of use to you. It's great for larger pieces though!

Hope this helps!

Let me know what material you are ordering from Shapeways, and I can tell you why it is rough and advise you about better materials

-Whystler

[ This Message was edited by: Whystler 2012-07-14 08:36 ]


 
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VampiressRN
Grand Member (7 years)  

Joined: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 5666
From: Sun City Lincoln Hills (NorCal)
Posted: 2012-07-14 09:28 am   Permalink

Wow...your last post was awesome. I don't know anything about the 3D Graphic programs and not interested in doing this art, but loved reading all the specifics...very intriguing. I love how you answer everyone's questions and really get into every detail. That is why most of us like reading Wendy Cevola's posts as they are a delightful learning experience, even for those of us that don't make mugs. GREAT THREAD...keep it up.
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Gene S Morgan
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Joined: Jul 18, 2011
Posts: 342
From: Midwest the navel of the USA
Posted: 2012-07-14 9:23 pm   Permalink

Thanks so much for your info. It is really helpful. I have been having my models made in what ShapeWays calls White, strong, and flexible or PA2200. I have considered using their White Detail, but the cost is about twice as much and they say it has less strength. I was concerned about the top loop where the cord is attached, so I worried about strength. I find the poured resin I am using is quite strong and since I am making copies of my pendants, strength of the model is probably not a major factor. As I said, since the pendants I am doing now are meant to represent wood or stone a little roughness is not a big problem. But, I might get to a point where I require a smoother finish and wish I had started out right in the first place ....I sencond VampiressRN in her appreciation of you thread ... Pleas keep it up ....

 
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Whystler
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Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-14 9:38 pm   Permalink

Vampire & Gene - you're most welcome!

Hey Gene, did you know that shapeways has a special augmentation to the strong white flexible material that smooths it? I have not tried it, so I cannot vouch for exactly what it feels like, but I suspect you might benefit from trying it. There is an extra charge for smoothing.. I believe that it is an extra .35 cents per cubed centimeter. I think they are coming out with their smoothest material very soon. If you take a look at their blog, you might see an announcement. It's a grey coloured material.

You might also want to try their full colour sandstone. It prints fully coloured pieces. Paint up your piece digitally, and give it a try. It is a more delicate material - yes ... but only for small delicate design bits, like loop for stringing a pendant. But if you made the loop more of a hole (or a double hole, as I used to do for polymer clay pendants I made in my younger days), then it would not be so delicate. And it would be 1) cheaper, and 2) already coloured for you. Caution though, it is not at all smooth .. it really does feel like sandstone, which might be a bonus.

Just some thoughts ...

-Whystler


 
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Gene S Morgan
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Joined: Jul 18, 2011
Posts: 342
From: Midwest the navel of the USA
Posted: 2012-07-15 7:29 pm   Permalink

Thanks much for the heads-up on new materials in ShapeWays. I have not tried any of their other materials except for the aluminite, and it was very poor in detail. I will check out their blog ... I really appreciate your help ... Gene

 
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clintiki
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Joined: Jul 14, 2011
Posts: 84
Posted: 2012-07-15 7:48 pm   Permalink

Great pieces! After putting on your spray base paint, what other paints do you use? Are you using a glaze mixed with an acrylic paint to get the antiquing effect? Thanks in advance.

Clintiki
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