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Tiki Central Forums » » Creating Tiki » » Other Crafts » » Tiki mugs by hmc
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Tiki mugs by hmc
MauiTiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jan 20, 2003
Posts: 693
From: A rock in the middle of the Ocean
Posted: 2006-02-15 7:42 pm   Permalink

Here is a little tip for creating the "Master"

Start with a cillinder...The photos tell the story...


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MauiTiki

Tiki and flower pattern Stickers
www.stuckonmaui.com
Maui Tiki Tours & Tiki Mugs www.mauitikitours.com
Hippie Stickers www.hippiestickers.com


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hmc
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jan 09, 2006
Posts: 122
From: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Posted: 2006-02-15 7:53 pm   Permalink

That is awesome! Looks great, thanks for sharing.

 
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Rum Demon
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 254
From: Portland, Oregon
Posted: 2006-02-15 8:06 pm   Permalink

Maui, hmc, these mugs look great. I can't wait to see them all glazed and fired. It's nice to have a community of mugmakers to draw inspiration from. I've always been jealous of all the carvers and wondered why there weren't more custom mug folk. Keep up the good work.

-Joe


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hmc
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jan 09, 2006
Posts: 122
From: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Posted: 2006-02-15 8:41 pm   Permalink

OK - I just poured the silicon in to the mold - now to wait 24 hours... BUT, I have a very bad feeling about this! Fingers crossed for me please!

Rum Demon - I'm happy to give mugs a go (and join the mug union!) - I agree about the carving and in a sense I wish I had wood *to* carve
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hmc
Helen McLean


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MauiTiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jan 20, 2003
Posts: 693
From: A rock in the middle of the Ocean
Posted: 2006-02-17 8:13 pm   Permalink

Rum Demon -Here is a photo of the final mug. I admit that I didn't do anything but the design. I am very interested in doing every step of the process.

hmc - keep sending us the info! Do you have a Kiln? Can we see photos of the silicon mold, and how you made it??



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MauiTiki

Tiki and flower pattern Stickers
www.stuckonmaui.com
Maui Tiki Tours & Tiki Mugs www.mauitikitours.com
Hippie Stickers www.hippiestickers.com


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teaKEY
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Nov 09, 2004
Posts: 3664
From: The thumb !
Posted: 2006-02-17 9:04 pm   Permalink

A quick, off the subject. Mauitiki your mug really holds its own next to those Shag and Munktiki mugs that I wouldn't mine having. If I didn't know better it looks like your mug intimidates the other alittle.

 
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Rum Demon
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 254
From: Portland, Oregon
Posted: 2006-02-18 09:21 am   Permalink

Nice work, Maui! Glaze is KEY. It's so hard to get a good, subtle glaze. You can have the best sculp in the world, but if the glaze is bad, the piece suffers greatly. It's one area that only time and experience can help to improve. I'm learning the slow and difficult way what works and what doesn't, but no matter what happens, it's always fun.

-Joe
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hmc
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jan 09, 2006
Posts: 122
From: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Posted: 2006-02-18 4:41 pm   Permalink

I have created the silicon mold & master.

Silicon used in this project is Polytek (a US brand)
www.polytek.com TINSIL 70-30. It comes in 2 parts as mentioned before.

I measured how much silicon would be needed by displacing water in a container with the master placed inside. I kept a plastic bag around the clay master to protect it from getting wet.

The test showed I would need 650ml. The test was wrong! I needed the whole litre that I had bought. Which not only meant that I needed to mix more in between the pour, but I had to buy more for the actual master.

Getting ready to measure using electronic scales (borrowed!)


24 hours pass and the clay master is ready to pull out of the silicon mold. My guy won’t budge I bring him embedded in the silicon back to the place where I bought the products. I stock up on another litre and get some advice on how to remove him. “He should come out real easy, but it seems there’s suction keeping him wedged in there at the base. Try soapy water, if that fails, try making a slit at the base to let the air in. He should just slip out”. Suffice to say, all attempts failed and my guy had to be destroyed. So much for my optimistic outlook (sorry atomictonytiki)

Straight out of the pipe, a solid silicon mass.


There he is! Stuck inside


Note: there are no photos of the destroyed clay master. I understand that it would be quite distressing to some TCers

I then add Vaseline (petroleum jelly) to the inside of the silicon mold so that the next silicon pour doesn’t bind to the edges. This time I mix 500ml of silicon and it is an exact measure, phew! 24 hours pass and my silicon guy needs to be removed.

What it looks like inside the silicon mold.


Silicon inside silicon...


My guy Mark II - the silicon master!


He's a flexible boy, you could almost play football with him...


And now I am ready to make a plaster mold.

I am one day behind my schedule (I am being extremely stringent in my plans here) but I think I will have mugs ready to fire by end of week.

MauiTiki: No I don’t have a kiln. I will be going some place where they offer a kiln firing service.

Stay tuned folks.
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hmc
Helen McLean


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hmc
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jan 09, 2006
Posts: 122
From: Melbourne, VIC, Australia
Posted: 2006-02-18 9:59 pm   Permalink

Plaster mold creation.

First of all, to make a 4 wall box:

I made mine out of left over ply.


I screwed the pieces together and used a silicon bead along the edges to fill in any gaps. If you leave the gaps, the plaster will just seep out!


Starting to "fill in" the base with more modeling clay (same stuff used to make the original master).


I built up the clay until the silicon master was elevated to the centre/middle of the box.


Once I reached the centre, I started neatening the edges along the silicon master. This is known as the "part line".


Spend most time on this area as if it isn't done neatly, there will be a noticeable part line down your mug.


Once finished, I popped in some indentations (I think they are referred to as "keys"). These will act as your locking mechanism when keeping your 2-part mold together in alignment. I just used the end of a thick marker.


Now it's ready for the plaster pour. I used Ceramical, 40m part water/100 part plaster. It dries in about 20 minutes! And as all plasters do, it heats up when it goes off (off as in hard, not smelly!)


Once the plaster had dried, I turned it upside and started to remove the modeling clay from underneath. The moment of truth!


This is what it looks like with all the clay removed. It's now ready for the second plaster pour.


Tomorrow it's off to buy some ceramic slip to start pouring the mugs. Depending on how long the slips take for each mug - I may be making more plaster molds to speed up the production line.

Hope you're all getting something out of this!
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hmc
Helen McLean


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Moki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2006-02-18 10:17 pm   Permalink

Thanks for taking the time to show us all of your hard work. It really is fascinating to watch.

 
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Tikiwahine
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Apr 09, 2003
Posts: 3288
From: Victoria, BC
Posted: 2006-02-18 10:21 pm   Permalink

This is really, really cool!
Your mug design is fantastic, and the effort you're putting into the mold process is obvious. I can't wait to see the next step!


 
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harro
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Sep 05, 2005
Posts: 681
From: Australia / Argentina
Posted: 2006-02-19 01:54 am   Permalink

great pics and explanations - this mug will turn out awesome!

 
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hewey
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 4278
From: Sydney, Australia
Posted: 2006-02-19 03:01 am   Permalink

Wow - great looking mug! The step by step pics are amazing too. Great work!

 
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Rum Demon
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 20, 2005
Posts: 254
From: Portland, Oregon
Posted: 2006-02-19 09:52 am   Permalink

Nice, explicit details. Was this your first mold or have you done it before? You're totally right about the part line being the majority of the labor. I think every mold maker has their own tools/methods for the "clay up". I bet it's much easier with a silicon master. When working on the part line one has to be VERY CAREFUL not to gouge the original sculpt, which for us is usually plasticene. We generally make the box out of foam-core AFTER buiding the clay up. This way we have easier access to the part line. I think I'm going to build a reuseable, adjustable box out of wood for future molds.

You skipped the step where you poured the plaster. Did you do a "splash coat" over the sculp first? After spritzing the sculp with water, we gently brush a small amount of the plaster in it's fairly liquid state over the exposed half of the piece first and gently brush it around, or if possible, lightly blow on it with compressed air. This is a good way of getting rid of any bubbles that may form. When we're happy with this, we then pour the rest of the plaster into the form. It's a bit tricky, especially if the plaster kicks quickly, but always works pretty well.

In addition to keys, we add pry points to our molds. That is, before pouring the second half, stick a couple of small wedges onto the mold, making sure they touch the sides of the box. These wedges in our case are usually just bits of clay. This leaves you with a place on the mold in which to stick a flat head screwdriver for leverage in getting it open. Very nice to have, especially when you open it for the first time.

I could go on with asking questions and imparting the bits that I know for hours. I'm really liking this thread. Thanks for all the pictures. I think this should take some of the mystery out of the process for people.

nice work,
Joe
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MUGS MUGS MUGS!!! Now on Etsy!
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hodadhank
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Dec 28, 2005
Posts: 1686
From: Mission Beach, CA
Posted: 2006-02-19 11:00 am   Permalink

Great fun to watch this fellow come together. Lots of smarts and hard work too. Much Respect....Hey what happens to little rubberhead when you're finished... is destroyed or can you keep him to re-use as the molds eventually deteriorate?

 
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