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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Other Crafts Shake Yer Booty update Jan. 22 Materials: Where to get 'em!
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Shake Yer Booty update Jan. 22 Materials: Where to get 'em!
Moki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-26 2:07 pm   Permalink

Here's my progress today....
I gathered my materials.



Then I made a box (I didn't have enough lego's)



Placed the original carving in (Thanks Mieko)



Then I mixed up the blue goo and poured it in.


The directions said it would take 24 hours to set and another 48 hours before I could use the mold. Do I REALLY have to wait that long?? I was hoping to pour some resin this weekend.

So far, so good.



[ This Message was edited by: Moki 2007-01-26 15:31 ]


 
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Bowana
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Joined: Nov 10, 2006
Posts: 1170
From: La Mesa, CA
Posted: 2007-01-26 5:12 pm   Permalink

pdrake: Cool! Those look nice and dark. How did you do it? Is it the clear resin you were using?

Moki: One thing I have not covered in this thread is the topic of silicone. I noticed that there are some bubbles in your mold. They may be only on the top (as air rises), or they could be throughout the mold and maybe in contact with the piece. Ordinarily one would put the silicone into a vacuum chamber to eliminate any air mixed into the silicone before pouring it into the mold. If you don't have a vacuum (and most people don't), you can break up air bubbles in the mix by pouring it slowly and in a very thin stream into the mold.
If there are bubbles touching the piece, you will have tiny little BB's on your castings wherever a bubble was. They usually get caught in the details. You can flick them out with a knife. Hopefully your mold will be okay. If not, you can certainly box the piece up again and make another one.
I will usually wait about 12-18 hours before pulling a GI-1000 mold and pouring it. I would say that, no you do not have to wait 48 hrs. That instruction might be for larger molds that would generate more heat from the casting resin. Since your mold is so small, your castings won't be that hot (heat-wise I mean!).
Let me know how it works!
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Moki
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Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-26 6:25 pm   Permalink

Thanks for letting me know we can pour tomorrow. Mr.NoNaMe is on his way over to make his mold and we are really anxious to keep going.

When I worked in a dental lab many years ago, we used a vibrating plate to bring the bubbles to the surface. Since I don't have that tool anymore I improvised and used my back massager instead (it really is a back massage!! Get your minds out of the gutter guys ). Hopefully it worked.

I'll post tomorrow after we seperate the mold. Fingers crossed!!


 
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Moki
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Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-27 2:39 pm   Permalink

Well, here it is.

The mold seems to be ok. Only little hiccup I had was I didn't make enough silicone to cover the tiki with as much I felt it needed to be. So I made another small batch immediately. It was slightly lighter in color (less activator) even though I used my postal scale.

That area is still a little soft even after 24 hours of cure time, so I'm letting it set another day before I do any resin.

I don't see any major air bubbles, maybe just one or two little pin point size ones. I'll post another update once we have a resin one done.



 
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Mr. NoNaMe
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Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 1919
Posted: 2007-01-27 7:14 pm   Permalink

I couldn't wait!! AARRRRGGHHHHH!!

I only peeled the foam board back a little. I saw an air bubble and gave it a shove with the hook knife. It was a bit (very little) sticky/wet at 22 hours.

I'll have to wait (EERRRRRRRR!!) until Monday morning.
NoNaMe
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Bowana
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Joined: Nov 10, 2006
Posts: 1170
From: La Mesa, CA
Posted: 2007-01-27 8:51 pm   Permalink

Moki and Mr. NoNaMe: That is so cool that you are making your own molds. Tiki smiles upon you!

Room temperature and humidity affect the cure time of silicone. Colder weather like we are having right now makes it set slower. However, 22-24 hours setting time should not be happening. Don't put in any less than 10% of the catalyst. I like to go a little bit higher when the weather is cold. 12-15% so it doesn't take forever. Be warned though, that if you go too high on the catalyst it will lessen the life of your mold.

You can speed up the setting time by putting your molds out in the sunlight, or next to a heater for an hour or so depending on how goopy.
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Moki
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Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-28 10:19 am   Permalink

We have lift off!!!

I think they look great. Man that resin sets up fast and boy it gets warm too!!

There are lots of little bubbles just under the surface. They don't seem to affect anything, but they looks weird. It's kinda cold in the garage. I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it since the resin says to use above 70 degrees.

Now we just need to paint them. Any suggestions as to what kind of paint to use?

I'm off to create my army, which will only be as large as my bottle of resin will allow. I can see a reorder in my future.



 
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Moki
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Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-28 3:29 pm   Permalink

The beginning of the 'OnaTiki army.

We experimented a little with the paint and came up with something that we're happy with. Thanks again for all your help. I think we're hooked!!



 
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4WDtiki
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Joined: Aug 03, 2004
Posts: 1879
From: Omao, Kauai
Posted: 2007-01-28 5:32 pm   Permalink

Those are lookin' good!

 
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Mr. NoNaMe
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Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 1919
Posted: 2007-01-29 5:06 pm   Permalink

Here is my attempt. Pretty good I'd have to say. A little bubbly, but no big deal.

Kinda rootbeer colored.
Now what to paint them with? I've got lots cans of spray paint in the garage and 25 year old Tamaya model paint that seems to be holding up pretty well.



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[ This Message was edited by: Mr. NoNaMe 2007-01-29 17:06 ]


 
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Bowana
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Joined: Nov 10, 2006
Posts: 1170
From: La Mesa, CA
Posted: 2007-01-29 8:01 pm   Permalink

SUCCESS!! Nice job, Moki and Mr. NoNaMe! The bubbles under the surface happens to me too sometimes. It might be the cold weather, not sure. Anybody out there have an answer for us? Remember to dust the mold with baby powder or talc to avoid surface bubbles.

I always give my castings a scrubbing with some warm water before painting in an attempt to clean off anything that might keep the paint from sticking. You can use primer as a base coat (I use Krylon), then you can drybrush or put an antique over it with enamel or acrylic. I've used shoe polish as an antiquing/wash.

Clysdalle, how are you doing?

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[ This Message was edited by: Tikidav 2007-01-29 20:04 ]


 
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mieko
Tiki Socialite

Joined: May 01, 2006
Posts: 532
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-29 8:33 pm   Permalink

Oh my gosh, oh my gosh! They look sooooo gooooood! I don't know how you are painting them, but they look great! Wow. I didn't see this thread till today.

I wanna come visit the army. I'll give ya a call.

Hey Mr. NoNaMe, which ones did you cast? I can't quite tell, but is the left one the one that has the tiki mug? If so, I'm calling dibs on one.


 
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Mr. NoNaMe
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Joined: May 10, 2006
Posts: 1919
Posted: 2007-01-29 8:53 pm   Permalink

I'mmm melllltiiiinnnggg

So, #2 has some melting issues. I think there is a little too much tint and maybe some pre-used somethin or other got in there as well. Really, I don't know how it happened.
Round three is clear. I coulda just carved a glue stick!.
And number D is darker and seems good. Except for the [b]exploded pimple on his forehead![b]




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[ This Message was edited by: Mr. NoNaMe 2007-01-29 20:54 ]


 
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Bowana
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Joined: Nov 10, 2006
Posts: 1170
From: La Mesa, CA
Posted: 2007-01-29 9:44 pm   Permalink

Erik, the glue stick casting is a result of not having equal amounts of A and B. The marbleized melllllllllllting! effect in the others is from not mixing thoroughly. The large bubbles are from pouring after the resin has begun to set.

Try it this way:
-Get three Dixie cups (or similar). Mark one "A", one "B", and leave the third blank.
-Pour even amounts of A and B into the corresponding cups.
-Mix your tint (only a few drops) into the A cup. Part A is the more transparent of the two.
-Pour them both into the third cup and mix for a good 10-15 seconds.
-Pour a little into your molds, rotate a few times to make sure all the area is covered and continue until the mold is full. This step is not so necessary on an open back mold like Moki's.

The reason for the third cup is because if you were to dump A into the B cup (or vise versa) and mix it, you would have more of the side that was already in the cup. Ratio is very critical when mixing very small batches.

Your Tiki pendants are very cool! They so deserve to be cast correctly. Hope this helps you.
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Moki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 08, 2004
Posts: 357
From: San Diego
Posted: 2007-01-29 10:10 pm   Permalink

Erik, Good job!! I've been anxiously awaiting pictures.

We were wondering what they would look like without any tint. It's a cute little glue stick

I had one batch go south and all melty too. I think I didn't mix it well enough. Lesson learned.

Show us more when you get them painted.

Now where is Clysdalle!?! Hello.......


 
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