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Bone Carving Q+A |
TikiMango
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jun 17, 2008
Posts: 798
From: Satellite Beach, FL
|  Posted: 2009-08-23 10:24 am Permalink
When I polish my bones I use white jeweler's rouge. The polishing compound fills all the little pores and makes for a nicer finish. I've also used the red rouge and it provides a nice contrast to show off the pores if that is the look you are going for. To each his own when it comes to da bone.
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Rainhawk
Tiki Centralite
Joined: May 06, 2009
Posts: 35
From: East Coast Aotearoa
| Posted: 2009-08-26 5:47 pm Permalink
Yea rouge not rogue  
Has anyone else see the book by flintoff? its similar to the myher book but has indepth detail, more techniques and different artifacts. They have a copy in the library here but its restricted i think.
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Paipo
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jun 22, 2006
Posts: 1886
From: Aotearoa / NZ
| Posted: 2009-08-26 6:00 pm Permalink
I have it and it's well worth the $35 or so. It's beautifully produced, well researched (although I would have liked more historical examples) and has a CD in the back with recordings of the various instruments.
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Benzart
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 09, 2004
Posts: 10364
From: Port Saint Lucie, Florida
| Posted: 2009-08-26 6:46 pm Permalink
Rainhawk, Paipo, the book sounds great and especially if it's only 35$ but you forgot to TELL US THE NAME??? You guys are as bad as me, forgetting major stuff like that.  
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TikiMango
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jun 17, 2008
Posts: 798
From: Satellite Beach, FL
| Posted: 2009-09-03 4:26 pm Permalink
MadDogMike, sorry for the late reply on this, but did you solve your cord attachment problem on your moai carving? Depending on the thickness of your bone, you could do one of the following:
A) Create a tunnel. This takes concentration as it's really easy to go all the way through, which you don't want to do. Just attack the bone from both sides at a 30-45 degree angle until the holes meet. Make sure you have enough material for supporting the weight of the piece and get rid of any sharp edges so they don't cut your cord.
B) Hidden top-hole. This is easier to do. I tend to offset the top vertical hole so the thicker material is towards the back of the piece where all the weight will bare. The good thing about this is that you can compensate for a thin piece of bone by having the horizontal hole further away from the edge, giving you more material to carry the weight of the piece. Again, nix those sharp edges.
C) Bonded bone loop. I haven't done this yet, but I think it would work just fine. Create a bone loop with a flat base, this would insert into a channel on the back of your piece. Use a gel cyanoacrylate (super glue) to bond the loop to the piece. Just be careful as the bone will bond fairly quickly, so your working time is 1 or 2 seconds. Any excess glue can be tooled away.
I hope those suggestions help.
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years) 
Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7248
From: The Anvil of the Sun
| Posted: 2009-09-03 6:39 pm Permalink
Rainhawk and TikiMango thanks very much for the suggestions, I need to finish that piece. TikiMango, the 4 braid cord is awesome, I may have to try that.
Mike
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coconuttzo
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 13, 2010
Posts: 144
From: Hilo, Hawaii
| Posted: 2010-03-05 10:56 am Permalink
Malo 'e lelei,
I was wondering if anybody can give tips to making crisp clean inside sharp angle cuts in bone. Especially in tight holed areas. Like these for example:
The smallest bur piece I have still does not give the clean angle I want. Somehow it comes out round. I've used a generic coping saw with the assistance of a mini swivel vice, but I have to make the hole large enough to pass one end of saw blade through.
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JohnnyP
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Nov 23, 2005
Posts: 1689
From: Attica, MI
| Posted: 2010-03-05 1:20 pm Permalink
Try a jeweler's saw--a much more precise tool than a coping saw although they look a lot a like. These saws are fairly inexpensive (student grade) and you can order blades you almost need a magnifying glass to see. You can get much crisper holes than a coping saw. Google jewelery supply companies for sources.
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coconuttzo
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 13, 2010
Posts: 144
From: Hilo, Hawaii
| Posted: 2010-03-06 5:44 pm Permalink
Malo 'aupito,
JohnnyP for that tip, I'll have to get me one of those.
pdrake for that tip on staining the bone in vinegar & tea on basement kahuna's thread.
I just made a matau & stained it. It will be posted on my own thread.
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coconuttzo
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 13, 2010
Posts: 144
From: Hilo, Hawaii
| Posted: 2010-03-15 3:35 pm Permalink
Any tips on how to make shell inlays, especially the perfectly round shaped ones. What tools are used to create such small inlays?
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TikiMango
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jun 17, 2008
Posts: 798
From: Satellite Beach, FL
| Posted: 2010-03-17 04:37 am Permalink
For sharp cut-outs, I use an inverted cone bur and/or a small set of jeweler's files (both regular and diamond).
A good tip I got for inlays was to super glue a small piece to a stick so you can rotate it as you grind away the outer diameter. I guess you could also use a dowel rod of the diameter you wanted to use it as a guide as you shaped the inlay. You can also buy inlay in standard diameters already round... but where's the fun in that?
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coconuttzo
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 13, 2010
Posts: 144
From: Hilo, Hawaii
| Posted: 2010-03-18 11:22 am Permalink
Thanks tikimango,
Those tips help. I've been checkin the net & found a site for those already rounded but as I looked at the pics, you're really limited with what they cut for you which are not really quality selections.
I did however find shell laminates & veneers that they were selling also. Has anyone ever tried using these and if so how'd it work out to your liking? Are they made from real shell or faux?
Here's the site, http://www.mopsupplies.com/paua_shell.html
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TikiMango
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jun 17, 2008
Posts: 798
From: Satellite Beach, FL
| Posted: 2010-03-18 7:10 pm Permalink
I bought a sheet of veneers and tried to use them when I started playing with the idea, but didn't like them. Very thin, and inconsistent as far as color. Your best bet is to get your hands on some real shells or buy a bag of "chip" shells. Is feels wrong to cut-up a whole shell because they are so great to look at, but its the only way to get really usable pieces for inlay work. Just make sure you always use a cartridge-style respirator when working the real shell.
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coconuttzo
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 13, 2010
Posts: 144
From: Hilo, Hawaii
| Posted: 2010-07-28 1:41 pm Permalink
Aloha Bone Carving Enthusiasts,
Someone here PM'd me about how I do my lashing for my fish hooks. I noticed on youtube a couple of guys that drill the hooks at the very tip which I think makes it vulnerable to breaking. Since I couldn't find any more decent sources on the matter, I took the liberty of drawing up a diagram yesterday which I hope is self explanatory. If there are any questions feel free to reply to this post & I can address them for all to read. Here's the link in PDF format.
https://acrobat.com/?i=1aGL7aih3WewHP01PyOgkg
Steps start from top L-R.
A few things to point out, in the first step, I run my loops at least 3x around main cord for strength. It can get difficult but with patience & practice it will eventually work out.
Before starting the 2nd, I make sure my loops from the 1st are pretty secure & that the pendant tip(make sure it's has a sharp point) is right under the main cord, practically touching it if you will. All your bindings from here on out should be fairly tight. I usually will wrap this around more than shown. I wrap till the tip is secured & I know that it will not come out through the sides. I usually will stop till about 1-2mm of the tip is wrapped.
Step 3, just running figure 8s around in an orderly fashion being careful not to overlap each other. The only ones that I do overlap my figure 8 lashings on are the loops that attaches the pendant to the main cord from step 1. That is to hide it from sight.
Step 4, when done, I hold working end in place thru loop while I use a needle nose plier to pull the starting/cut end above the main cord. I pinch the tip of string, wrap it around the needle nose by rolling the plier till it reaches the lashings & pull till the loop on the bottom pulls the running end under all the lashing. DO NOT pull too much, just enough to have the loop at least halfway under the bindings.
After all is done I cut off the end I just pulled, as close as I can to the lashings. I then use an X-acto or razor blade to carefully cut the opposite end as close as I dare to, against the bone.
Good luck.
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Creative Chimp
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jul 31, 2008
Posts: 285 | Posted: 2010-09-08 1:25 pm Permalink
here is my own little cheat sheet for lashing. just found it on google little bit here and there. had a hard time finding anything online to show different techniques.....thanks coconuttzo for your PDF. thought i would share what little i found. hope this helps somebody out there in tiki land
also, a website for peopl that like doing knots.....its a good source
http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?board=5.0
a good youtube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qCi8yWA8IQ
and a link to where i found some of what you see below: http://igkt.net/sm/index.php?topic=1794.0
if its too hard to see just PM me with your email and i can send a PDF to anybody interested.....
[ This Message was edited by: Creative Chimp 2010-09-08 13:39 ]
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