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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Other Crafts MadDog Mike's Platterful of Pupule-Wind Motion Hornbill
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MadDog Mike's Platterful of Pupule-Wind Motion Hornbill
MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7295
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2008-09-24 07:19 am   Permalink

Thanks Octopussy. It's sketching that boggles my little mind- I see things in 3D and when I try to convert them to 2D my brain melts down and gives me stick figures. I've been trying a modified closed object technique where you make an air-filled "clay balloon" and then form it to the desired shape but it's not working too well for a skull. I may have to try Babalu's method of sculpting it solid then hollowing it out.

Edit - PS I like the "O moye kite", I may have to put it in my signature line when I get tired of the electric fence.
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[ This Message was edited by: MadDogMike 2008-09-24 07:53 ]


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7295
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2008-09-29 8:54 pm   Permalink

"Foreign Exchange Student Dies in Kiln Accident!" Well, my Australopithecus Maorius didn't exactly die, but he was mortally wounded He had started developing a crack inside while drying. I tried several things but couldn't seem to get it fixed. He didn't break completely in the bisque firing but the crack was there. I thought maybe a good thick coat of glaze would fix it but no such luck.

Maybe I let him dry too fast? Also, he has a large flat base and I dried him on a tabletop; I hear that it's better to dry things on several layers of newspaper. The paper works as "ball bearings" and allows the clay to shrink without stressing it. Oh well, it was a fun project and I keep on learning!




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Cammo
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Joined: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1952
From: San Diego
Posted: 2008-09-29 10:14 pm   Permalink

This skull way better than anything GROG do lately, crack or no crack. Keep going, MD!

 
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GROG
Grand Member (first year)  

Joined: Jun 21, 2006
Posts: 6862
From: Tujunga
Posted: 2008-09-30 01:15 am   Permalink

GROG no do crack. GROG only take blood pressure drugs.

Sorry about the crack MadDoggy. Keep trying and keep learning, but most of all, have fun.

Stay away from Cammo Toe.

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[ This Message was edited by: GROG 2008-09-30 01:16 ]


 
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Cammo
Tiki Socialite

Joined: May 18, 2006
Posts: 1952
From: San Diego
Posted: 2008-09-30 06:38 am   Permalink

What the...? Does GROG do a search for "GROG" every day to see if anybody's been talking about him?

Me hear GROG and his friendly caveman friend OG do cracks every day.

Anyway, this skull still looks great, ferget the crack, that just makes it look antique and even cooler. Go Speed Dog, Go!


 
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Babalu
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Joined: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 2505
From: Lemon Grove
Posted: 2008-10-01 10:27 pm   Permalink

Hey Mike!

If your mug holds liquid...it's fine. If you have cracks on the inside of a mug that you would like to try and cover, try using a opaque color instead of the clear the next time.

Dude, I'm not much of a 2D guy either, but I will say this...it's the basis of everything. Try drawing for a least 15 mins a day...You will get better. Draw what you see, not what you know is there.

Here are a couple of skull drawings for you...look at the distance from the center of the eyes to the top of the head. Look at the center of the eyes to the bottom of the jaw...

Your doing FANTASTIC brother!










 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7295
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2008-10-02 07:22 am   Permalink

Cammo and Grog, you make my day. Australopithecus Maorius is a fictitious character, any resemblance to Grog is purely coincidental!

Babalu, thanks for the technical assist. I had a 3D skull for reference but it didn't seem to help Part of the problem was that my porcelain "balloon" was pretty stiff... I could tell the skull wasn't what I wanted but couldn't manipulate it much for fear of cracking it. Next class section is coil building, I'm determined to make a decent skull and I've drawn some grid lines on my reference skull to help. We'll see how a coiled skull turns out
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Clarita
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Joined: Sep 26, 2006
Posts: 1301
From: BA Arg
Posted: 2008-10-03 08:55 am   Permalink

Nice! keep going!

 
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VanTiki
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Nov 25, 2005
Posts: 1021
From: Hawaii
Posted: 2008-10-03 11:40 am   Permalink

Quote:

On 2008-09-29 20:54, MadDogMike wrote:
He had started developing a crack inside while drying. I tried several things but couldn't seem to get it fixed. He didn't break completely in the bisque firing but the crack was there. I thought maybe a good thick coat of glaze would fix it but no such luck.



Oh man - I've been there more times than I want to remember! The dreaded crack. I've got one now on my big Gold Eater mug - I didn't reinforce the join on the interior chamber well enough and it has a hairline crack in it after the bisque firing. I'm also gonna try the "glaze is glue" patch - but it has never worked for me in the past! The good news for you is your skull is still awesome and will make a great tabletop vessel for non-liquid kine stuffs. You also get major bonus points for sculpting in porcelain, which I find to be quite the pain in the okole. Sticky to work with, can't support itself very well when wet, major warping when in the kiln, etc. Does look great, though!

Henrik
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7295
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2008-10-03 6:01 pm   Permalink

Thanks Clara. It's soon to be Spring in Buenas Aires, are you excited?! Any new mugs?

Henrik, muchos mahalos! I've been working with Babalu's Laguna E347 and Soldate 60, the porcelain does seem harder to work with. The Coleman is supposed to be a good porcelain but I've never worked any other porcelain so I have no point of reference. The "glaze is glue" theory didn't work, next step is finely powdered bisqued porcelain mixed with just enough glaze to make a thick paste. We'll see if that works
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Babalu
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Joined: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 2505
From: Lemon Grove
Posted: 2008-10-03 10:47 pm   Permalink

Hey Mike and Henrick...Using this low fire clay, I've have had a few pieces lately form hairline cracks during dry out...mostly on the inside of the mugs that don't go all the way through. Lucky, none of these hairline cracks seemed to grow during the bisque firing. The cone 06 glaze used on them seemed to cover the cracks to the point that you couldn't even tell they were there. I'm guessing that some of this is due to the low fire. Henrick, I'll bet the cone 5 clay you are using still goes thorough quite a bit of shrinkage in the glaze firing? This clay I'm using right now really does not shrink anymore in the glaze firing.

CRACKS SUCKS!!

I have a few mugs with these cracks in them now which I am candling at 200 degrees all night tonight in the kiln...I'll ramp the kiln up in the morning. Cross your fingers, I would really like to see this kiln load turn out well.

Mike did you mug have the crack in it's greenware sate, or did it become present after the bisque firing? Can you show a picture maybe?


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7295
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2008-10-04 08:00 am   Permalink

The crack started in the greenware, no I don't have any pictures. It wasn't bone dry when it developed so I tried brushing slip into the crack by that didn't work. I even tried digging the crack out and backfilling it with thick slip like Mishima. I hear adding vinegar and/or baking soda to the slip helps?

I think I know of 2 reasons why it cracked;
1 - it's handbuilt and much thicker than the slipcast pieced I've made. I think I tried to dry it too fast, still trying to learn patience
2 - it isn't footed, just a big flat bottom. I covered it over with plastic to dry slowly but the bottom was just sitting on the formica tabletop. The part in contact with the table dried more slowly than the inside of the mug that was exposed to some air. Plus the bottom probably grabbed the table and couldn't move as it dried, stressing the clay. From now on I'll dry on several layers of newspaper.

Good thing I low fire glazed it or it probably would have been a disaster! Drying more slowly is gonna kill me! I want to fire NOW! I'm working on a decorated peep hole plug that will be somewhat thick, I guess I'll have to try the "turn the bag insideout everyday" technique. At least this is a mold, if I screw up it's easier to start again.

CRACKS SUCK!!! If I liked crack I would have been a plumber

EDIT: I don't have a pre-glaze pic but I guess I can post a post-glaze pic. It doesn't seem to leak, but since it's low fired and not vitrified, it isn't safe for food consumption as is.



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[ This Message was edited by: MadDogMike 2008-10-04 08:29 ]


 
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Babalu
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Nov 19, 2006
Posts: 2505
From: Lemon Grove
Posted: 2008-10-04 08:22 am   Permalink

Morning Mike,

I have not tried this yet, but I've heard if you powder up some dried out clay and mix it with a little vinegar - paste like - carve out the crack in the greenware - fill with the paste - fire...this is suppose to work well. I will have to try it

Like I said, this kiln load I'm firing today has some mugs that have like issues to your mug. Should be interesting.

Like I mention in some past post somewhere, the Japanese have long elaborated on cracks that have happened on prize tea cups by filling the crack with silver. I really would like to try this a some point...ok something, go ahead...crack! :-)
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BeezleBug
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Oct 01, 2008
Posts: 212
From: Boulder City, Nevada
Posted: 2008-10-04 08:35 am   Permalink

Hey guys, what's the ideal way to dry out a slipcast piece? I've just been plopping the greenware on a countertop. I'll try the newspaper trick, but would you recommend something more cautionary? I'm in Nevada, where the humidity is practically zero year-round, so stuff dries pretty fast. The only cracks I've had thus far on my first and second batch of mugs are those that I accidentally caused by manhandling the wet greenware - but it couldn't hurt to be more careful.

 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (6 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7295
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2008-10-04 08:46 am   Permalink

BeezleBug, I think drying is less critical on slipcast because it's thin and has an even wall thickness. Seems like the thicker handbuilt stuff is more of a problem. Drying on paper would be a safe practice, you can also cover loosely with plastic to slow down the drying a little. Hopefully someone with more experience than I will pop in too.

Babalu, what about the Precious Metal Clay, have you looked at that? About 80% microcrystilline silver powder and 20% binder. It work like clay then you fire it in the kiln, the binder burns out leaving pure silver (also available in gold and bronze) But it shrinks 20%, probably wouldn't work for a crack repair.
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