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Geedavee is posting carvings. |
geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
|  Posted: 2009-02-03 8:48 pm Permalink
This took about 20 hours of total work.
I need to do more of the big stuff with the chainsaw.
Thanks for all the input.
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-04-18 11:39 am Permalink
I just finished my latest tiki. Now that the weather is improving, I hope to do more carving.
 
I found someone that can provide me with a few bigger logs so I can start adding bodies and head-dresses.
Kind comments welcome. Still looking for my own style. This one was based on a drawing I saw.
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seeksurf
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Sep 27, 2007
Posts: 2144
From: Buckley, WA
| Posted: 2009-04-18 5:01 pm Permalink
Nice job, i like the mouth and teeth on this guy.
Cool that you are thinking going full sized.
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-05-11 4:57 pm Permalink
I am currently trying to do a tiki that actually has a carved body and it looks like I have made a few errors.
 
Does anyone have any suggestions on what to do with his face/head/chest?
I know his legs are a bit thin, but I don't think I can do anything with that without risking him losing one.
Right now he looks like one of those guys at the gym that just work out their upper body.
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[ This Message was edited by: geedavee 2009-05-11 16:57 ]
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Benzart
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 09, 2004
Posts: 10397
From: Port Saint Lucie, Florida
| Posted: 2009-05-12 05:13 am Permalink
Aww,Gee, lemme See, I wold just start working on the features and detail, rounding out the arms, shaping the body, shaping the head/headdress and then some finer finish tats or whatever fits in.
This in Paint with a mouse who has not yet had breakfast. Just a suggestion. There is Always a lot you can do to a piece which is in the rough-out stage seemingly over cut and messed up. When you work your way out of these problems it makes the carving special and makes you a better carver. So Just start shaping and have fun!
 
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-05-12 7:54 pm Permalink
Thanks so much for your input. I did my best to take your advice.
 
I still have more shaping to do. I broke off the nose, but wood glue took care of it.
Also this wood smells like ammonia. I am hoping it isn't some cats urine.
Thanks again.
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TikiMango
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jun 17, 2008
Posts: 798
From: Satellite Beach, FL
| Posted: 2009-05-13 05:06 am Permalink
I'm using a TouchPad and Paint, so my sketch is crude as well. He still looks a bit heavy in the chest since his legs are on the thin side. Like you said, I wouldn't mess with his legs as you might lose one, but you can work on his chest and arms more.
If you were to remove the material in Red (maybe carve as deep as you did at his neck), and smooth out the area in Blue, you could make his arms look like they are bent at the elbows with his hands touching at his stomach/belly. This would also give him some nice pectoral muscles. 
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-05-13 7:27 pm Permalink
Thanks for the advice TikiMango, but I couldn't redo the arms without having to deal with the fingers I already carved so I decided to finish up on this one and move on to the next one.
Here it is with the first coat of shellac.
 
I am hoping that 3 coats of shellac and 3 coats of Poly will be enough to cover up the ammonia smell.
I learned that I need to work with taller logs if I am going to do full bodies.
This one is only 19" tall. I have to keep the logs size small because I work on my balcony.
Thanks again.
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4WDtiki
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Aug 03, 2004
Posts: 1973
From: Omao, Kauai
| Posted: 2009-05-13 7:35 pm Permalink
Quote:
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On 2009-05-12 19:54, geedavee wrote:
Also this wood smells like ammonia. I am hoping it isn't some cats urine.
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Dave, if it's fan palm, some pieces do reek like that.
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-06-05 9:15 pm Permalink
Well I finished another one. This makes number 12.
I am slowly getting better and making fewer mistakes.
Space limitations only allow me to work on small logs for now.
I am currently adding 3 coats of shellac, then 3 coats of varnish.
Is that sufficient for coating a tiki?
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-06-06 09:46 am Permalink
I seem to be having some issues with my shellac or poly in that after a few weeks, it is beginning to peel. See the yellow parts that look like bad dental hygiene?
I know I am doing something wrong.
I figure it is either improper sanding between coats, or I am putting it on too thick.
Any experts out there want to tell me where I am going wrong and what can I do to fix the damage?
Any advice would be helpful.
Thanks.
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4WDtiki
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Aug 03, 2004
Posts: 1973
From: Omao, Kauai
| Posted: 2009-06-06 12:48 pm Permalink
I've never used shellac, but is it drying fully between coats? Is the wood fully dried before sealing?
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Polynesiac
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 29, 2004
Posts: 2094
From: San Pedro, CA
| Posted: 2009-06-06 6:12 pm Permalink
What kind of shellac are you using?
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geedavee
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Mar 22, 2007
Posts: 226
From: Los Angeles, CA
| Posted: 2009-06-08 11:18 am Permalink
The shellac I am using is called Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Shellac.
I then follow up with 3 coats of either Marine Spar or Polyurethane.
I did seal the bottom of the tiki so any remaining water wouldn't have a place to drain.
Should I leave the bottom untreated?
These are indoor tikis so I started tacking neoprene to the bottom of them.
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Polynesiac
Tiki Socialite
Joined: Jan 29, 2004
Posts: 2094
From: San Pedro, CA
| Posted: 2009-06-08 7:33 pm Permalink
Quote:
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On 2009-06-08 11:18, geedavee wrote:
The shellac I am using is called Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Shellac.
I then follow up with 3 coats of either Marine Spar or Polyurethane.
I did seal the bottom of the tiki so any remaining water wouldn't have a place to drain.
Should I leave the bottom untreated?
These are indoor tikis so I started tacking neoprene to the bottom of them.
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Here's my guesses - In your last picture you posted, the buildup does look pretty thick around the teeth. It may be that you are applying too much at once. It's always better to go light and do more coats. 3 coats are plenty, especially for indoor tikis when one coat or no coat is fine too. Indoor tikis don't generally have to be protected from the weather. I have carved tikis that I've never put polyurathane on and they look exactly the same as they did when I finished carving and staining them years ago.
Also, is there a reason why are you using so many different types of sealant on the same tiki? They may not be bonding correctly - even with light sanding between coats. I suggest sticking (HA!) to one type of sealant. They all work fine on their own.
YES still seal the bottom of your tiki, and put several coats on that. Not only does it help in drying, but it also helps keep critters out (termites and whatnot). Neoprene is fine to attach to the bottom of your tiki (I'm sure it makes it easier to slide around your house). I may suggest just checking under there every so often (until the tiki totally dries) for mold. It does happen occasionally.
Hopefully that helped. Let us know if you have any other questions! Have fun carving!
PS - I like that big mouth guy!!!! It looks like he has a lot to say (or eat!!!)
----EDIT----
as far as fixing it....you're probably going to have to sand it off. You may have to re-stain it as well, as the sanding will probably remove some of it.
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[ This Message was edited by: Polynesiac 2009-06-08 19:36 ]
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