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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Tiki Carving KINO's carving thread....
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KINO's carving thread....
tikigodz
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Joined: Oct 12, 2009
Posts: 439
Posted: 2009-11-01 12:04 pm   Permalink

Lovin the flames Kino!!! great idea.

 
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Kino
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Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-01 2:44 pm   Permalink

Benzart- I personally like the natural, 'ancient' feel also. Thats why my earlier pieces were pretty unfinished. I read somewhere on here to sand between coats, what will happen if I just put on 2 or 3 thin coats with no sanding ? (lazy)

SDshirtman - thanks for the kind words , I love your sanding and finishing, but I haven't figured out how to do that very efficiently so I opted for the rough, hand chiseled look.

Tikigodz - much thanks for looking, I was thinking you to be an amateur like myself, but from the looks of your fence and living room, me thinks you are many moons ahead of me. very nice stuff !

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Kino
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Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-05 2:25 pm   Permalink

I am ready to put a finish on my latest piece, but I have some questions before I make some stupid mistake. I found this advice on a thread and would like to try it out on my carve ;

" I used to brush on spar varnish, let it dry, and sand in between coats - pretty labor intensive process. Later (on Benzart's advice) I started using spray shellac first, then spray varnish second. I know those two work well together, and using spray instead of brush cuts way down on time. You can do the whole thing in one day with the coats totally dry in between applications, and no sanding. You'd have to try really hard to get drips with this approach. "


Can any of you more experienced guys answer these questions for me ?

1- if I'm not sanding my piece will the above technique still have a nice look ?

2- how many coats of each product should I use ?

3- I carve palms, do I need to let them dry completely before the shellac/varnish ?

3a- if I seal them when they are still wet, will the moisture eventually dry out ?(slower maybe)

4 - what should I use to seal the top and bottom ?


Thanks in advance

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TikiMango
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Joined: Jun 17, 2008
Posts: 798
From: Satellite Beach, FL
Posted: 2009-11-05 2:54 pm   Permalink

3 & 3a, I'd let them dry completely before applying any finish. You live in AZ, they should dry out in a few weeks. I live in FL, and it takes months for them to dry out due to the humidity. I sealed mine too fast, mold grew under the varnish. Not the greatest thing to happen.
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tikigodz
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Joined: Oct 12, 2009
Posts: 439
Posted: 2009-11-05 3:05 pm   Permalink

KINO I have all the same questions. The only problem with praying them is cost$$$
Also after i toast them up the brush on technique starts to spread the char every where. So your right labor itensive and pretty much an all out pain in the.....


 
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Tikilizard
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Joined: Aug 19, 2006
Posts: 374
Posted: 2009-11-05 4:22 pm   Permalink

Are you going to put the carving inside or outside. What is the rain like in your area. I have used spray and it just doesn't hold up to South Florida weather.
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Kino
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Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-05 6:30 pm   Permalink

TikiMango--- So, after you finish carving, you just wait till its all dried and relatively light ? I tried some testing on some older, very dry Tiki's and they just soak up everything I throw at them without leaving any real amount of material on the outside.

tikigodz--- I read somewhere on here that someone uses a wire brush or something like that after burning. Might be worth a try.

tikilizard--- Probably gonna live outside, and our average annual rainfall is only about 3 inches. The real problem is the brutal sun ! It just bakes everything !

Keep the suggestions flowing, please !!!
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tikigodz
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Joined: Oct 12, 2009
Posts: 439
Posted: 2009-11-05 7:06 pm   Permalink

Hey Kino thanks for chekin in on my thread.
I beleive Big tikiScott burns them ,then carefully stains around the char ,after drying he brushes on spar Sands then buffs. Best check his thread on his last Tiki . he explains it better than me..


 
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Benzart
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Joined: Jan 09, 2004
Posts: 10365
From: Port Saint Lucie, Florida
Posted: 2009-11-06 02:47 am   Permalink

Hey Kino, I LOVE your questions:

"
Can any of you more experienced guys answer these questions for me ?

1- if I'm not sanding my piece will the above technique still have a nice look ?

2- how many coats of each product should I use ?

3- I carve palms, do I need to let them dry completely before the shellac/varnish ?

3a- if I seal them when they are still wet, will the moisture eventually dry out ?(slower maybe)

4 - what should I use to seal the top and bottom ?"
............

1, If you don't sand the carving it jst won't look too refined,,of course it depends on how well it was finished to begin with. If it is mostly chisled then not a lot of sanding is needed, if it is Chainsaw and grinder then more sanding is needed. With palm you don't want to rub against it and feel sharp thingies.

2,, I don't quite understand this ? so will just go over a quick finishing. first it depends on the wood, for palm you may need a few coats of stain depending on the look you want so stain is a "Just what looks good" kind of deal. for the clear, I like to give 2 or 3 coats of shellac as a sealer after the stain because it dries fast and can be SANDED between coats quickly. After the shellac, you already have a nice look and now you need the protection and the poly's or varnishes are next. LOOK at the directions before buying as many of the drying times are different and you want the fastes drying time because you should put on at least 3 coats to get the protection you want,, th More the merrier. You just don't wnt to be re coating it 6 months down the road. REMEMBER the poly's and varnishes are mostly for Protection. You Need to sand between coats to get proper adhering of the next coat.

3, should you let the palm dry before the poly coats? well it will take forever to dry a palm log so no is the correct answer but you need to let the Surface be dry which could take a few days.
3a. If you don't let the surface dry the palm will continue to dry BUT not n all areas. The nasty MOLD comes around and really not look good then the finish will start to flake off so See # 3 and let the surface dry well.

4. What to use to seal the top and bottom? The same stuff you use on the sides, just remember #'s 1, 2, 3 and 3a. Sometimes it is a good idea to attach a bottom "Base" board to the carving for stability since by now you found that you forgot to level the base before you started to carve(Always the first step!). Just finish the bottom before you attach the base.

EASY, 4 steps to finishing your tiki. Remember every piece is different, every log is different and all the finishes are different, the ONLY thing that is Not different is the Sanding part which ALWAYS Needs to be done.
You had mentioned the burning thing. For palm burning is a great way to rid the piece of the sharp splinters always sticking up but that is another whole chapter!

Hope this helps and also remember these are only My recommendations, everyone else will have their own. This works for me and I've been doing this for 25 years and have Always looked for the Easiest lazy mans way to finish a tiki!



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Kino
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-06 12:02 pm   Permalink

Ben,
Thank you again so much for sharing your experience and expertise.
The detail of your explanations is VERY helpful and equals the great detail
of your carvings.

Everyone here on TC is so helpful.

Mahalo
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Kino
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-06 12:12 pm   Permalink

In the meantime, I have been wanting to bust out some simpler pieces to feed my addiction.
I have a stockpile of about 20 logs right now that should keep me busy most of the Winter.


Here is the start of my first Moai.
Stripped the log and roughed it out this morning.
Took about 3 hrs to get to this point.




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tikigodz
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Joined: Oct 12, 2009
Posts: 439
Posted: 2009-11-06 5:56 pm   Permalink

nice start And wsy to keep .em coming
BEN you are the MAN!!!!! Knowledge is power,


 
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Benzart
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Joined: Jan 09, 2004
Posts: 10365
From: Port Saint Lucie, Florida
Posted: 2009-11-07 4:13 pm   Permalink

Kino, Excellent looking Moai, take your time , he is looking Perfect!
(Thanks t-godz.)
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Kino
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-08 8:25 pm   Permalink

Ben,
thanks again for da kine words.
I'm not going for perfection this time, just looking for the 'vibe'.
No sketching or layout, I just started chopping away.
The log is real wet and I'm waiting for it to dry a little bit now that it is cut deep. I hope it doesnt split out too bad. I'll just wait and see.
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Kino
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Aug 16, 2009
Posts: 100
From: Valley of The Sun (Phoenix, AZ)
Posted: 2009-11-17 11:17 am   Permalink

I had to wait for this Moai to dry a bit before continuing.
Sure enough, he cracked pretty good, but I think they add to his character.
And this is not the greatest log to begin with.

Anyway, here are some shots after sanding and stain.






The stain is called puritan pine.
Looks a little light right now, but it will richen up after the varnish. (I think)
Varnish and more pics tomorrow.
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