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Tiki Central Forums » » Creating Tiki » » Other Crafts » » Wendy Cevola 6/22/18 hang10tikis on a trip of a lifetime. 3 O2 out Diver's Helmets put together.
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Wendy Cevola 6/22/18 hang10tikis on a trip of a lifetime. 3 O2 out Diver's Helmets put together.
Hamo
Grand Member (first year)  

Joined: Aug 22, 2016
Posts: 574
From: Colorado (via Iowa)
Posted: 2018-02-17 10:08 pm   Permalink

Wow; that mug looks like it’s the size of a gallon milk jug. Does the texture of the volcano cause any undercuts?

 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-18 09:54 am   Permalink

HopeChest it just takes practice. Each time I do one the next one is easier. I'm so happy that I have done enough projects that I can remember how I did the last one.

Hamo and almost that heavy. That will change as they dry out. The texture is so shallow that there's no problem as long as I put the mold piece straight off. If I rounded a corner they that would all smear off.

===============================================

Here is my favorite part to share, the making of the mold for the Sacramento Crawl mug for 2018. This will take a number of days to post each part. There are so many steps and I want to teach everyone how to do it without making all the mistakes I have made.

I've had one lesson in mold making and that's all it took to figure the rest out. That lesson and all the steps are on page one of this thread.


Plaster sticks and is hard to remove so we always use a tarp on the floor.


I measured the height of the volcano to determine the height and width of the floor of the mold box that I will need. At least two inches on the sides and four at the top. I'll show you that as we proceed.


This shows the wooden sides and the c-clamps that we use to make the box.


Years ago I found these foam blocks at TRUs. I can cut them with a saw knife as needed. They save me a lot of time.


First I put a layer under the volcano. I also raised the top end so that it is level. Then I fill in at the bottom where another mold piece will be made. At the top I am making an opening where the slip will pour into the mold.


Here's another view.


I cut up a bunch of clay to use next.


I press the clay on top of all the blocks.


I cover all of the blocks and bring the clay right up to the volcano. I also pressed snakes of clay along all the seams of the box. Once this is done I run a wet paper towel along the seams and any place that the clay touches the box or the volcano. This make the connection less likely to leak.


Here is another view. The dents in the clay become locks between pieces of the mold so that they hold in place.


AS SOON AS YOU BRING OUT THE BAG OF PLASTER BE SURE TO HAVE YOUR FACE MASK IN PLACE. DO NOT REMOVE IT FOR THE REST OF THE TIME YOU ARE IN THE GARAGE OR WORKING WITH THE PLASTER. IT WILL ENTER YOUR LUNGS AND HARDEN NEVER TO COME BACK OUT AGAIN. COPD IS NOT JUST FROM SMOKING.

I love watching the sculpture disappear under the plaster.


I am always aware of where the plaster is hitting. You don't want the stream to break loose any connections between soft clay and the sculpture.


Almost gone. This top slab should be at least 2 inches thick.


I checked the thickness and noticed that I hadn't gotten the mix just right between water and plaster. It should be a tiny bit thicker on my hand. We call it the buttermilk test. But since I'm making the slab so thick it will most likely be just fine.


Dan cleans the mixer and all the buckets as fast as each step is completed. Wearing his mask and I am too.


It takes around 45 minutes for the plaster to set up in the summer, a little longer in the winter. Once it is set I carve the name of the piece and the date. I do this on each piece.


We did this first piece on one day because it is the hardest piece to do and then we went to work very early the next day.


So imagine us cleaning up and watching TV for the night. One piece done and four more to go.

Wendy




[ This Message was edited by: danlovestikis 2018-02-18 10:28 ]


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-19 08:49 am   Permalink

Part Two of making the mold for the Sacramento Crawl mug 2018.

The box has been removed.


We put on a strap so that we can flip it over onto the mold piece we cast the day before. You don't want the sculpt to ever come loose from the mold pieces until the mold is finished.


Next I remove all the blocks. I had a piece of bubble wrap under the mug to prevent losing any detail.


Then I pulled off the clay except under the top block. This stays put and will be covered in clay. This is the opening into the mold where the slip is poured into the mold.


Ready to go with the next mold pieces.


With all of the blocks and clay removed it's time to use mold soap. I always do four layers. Each one soaks in and then I blot with a paper towel and do it again. This is poison so wear gloves and of course we haven't ever taken off our masks.


Now I begin to build the dam. I want to pour plaster to make two pieces at the same time. The Dam is designed so that these two pieces will be able to pull straight off.


Ariel view!


Looking at the other side.


Here is the bottom of the mug.


Here is the top of the mug.


Next I added the snakes at all the seams and sealed them with a wet paper towel. Also note that the mold piece is now the bottom of the box.


I started to worry that this piece might not pull straight off without damaging the texture so


I began to build up some clay to block the plaster from going on this area. Mold pieces can be any shape you want, think puzzle.


Once this area was built up to the top we mixed the plaster and poured in in on


both sides.


Now it firms up over 45 minutes. Two pieces left to go. Wendy

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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-20 09:00 am   Permalink

PART THREE OF MAKING THE MOLD FOR THE SACRAMENTO CRAWL 2018

Once the two side pieces are hard I am able to dig out the soft clay dam.


Now the mug is again exposed and ready for the fine tuning.


I use a chisel to sharpen up the edges so that the next piece won't have any thin spots.


I first put a wet paper towel down to catch the plaster pieces that come off.


All cleaned up and ready to have


4 layers of mold soap applied and the plaster so that the piece in-between will not stick.


Next I use this 2 cup container to figure out how much plaster to mix. It is close to 1 of water to 2 of plaster.


I put all the water into the bucket and then as Dan mixes I slowly sprinkle in the plaster. Every so often he turns off the mixer and I stick in my hand to check to see if the consistency is that of butter milk. I also squish up any lumps I feel.


Now it's time to pour it into the crevasse.


I always have a plastic bag ready in which to pour any excess.


Now I wait for it to harden while


Dan cleans up the mess.


When it is hard we remove the box and


I use a rasp to round the edges and to flatten this side that has three pieces.


One more piece to go. Cheers, Wendy


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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7893
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2018-02-20 8:03 pm   Permalink

Dang
That’s a ton of work
Made me tired

What’s the story with that downward climbing monkey?






[ This Message was edited by: hang10tiki 2018-02-20 20:08 ]


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-21 7:01 pm   Permalink

hang10tiki you are so right. No one enjoys making molds. The monkey was made by MadDogMike to decorate VampiressRN's room at Tiki Oasis a few years ago. He also made a plane. We got to bring them both home to decorate our garage and man cave.

============================

PART FOUR making the mold for the Sacramento Crawl 2018 in October.

First I remove the soft clay that formed the opening for the mold.


I make this opening large so that I can have it hold a lost of extra slip that will disappear inside as the mold sucks out the water. This way I don't have to keep returning to top off the slip.


The first mold pieces are held together with a strap. When the last (bottom) piece is poured it will level out so the mold won't look so wonky.



I use a cantaloupe scoop to make more locks that will keep the last piece from slipping.


I coat the plaster with four layers of mold soap and blot between. This is poison so gloves should be worn if you think you might touch it. Also a mask should be worn but we never take ours off on a mold day.


My wooden mold sides are not tall enough to this last piece so I took wood and placed it around the mold to support the sides.


I put the box together on top of the wood supports.


Here's how it looks.


We mix the plaster together. I measure the water and then slowly sprinkle in the plaster until it's just like buttermilk.


We have two buckets one with water that is for mixing the plaster and one that I use to wash my hands and Dan runs the mixer in to clean off the plaster before it hardens.


In this photo you can see the clay snakes I put at all the seams and around the edges where the mold is against the wooden box. This prevents leaks which are a nightmare. I also run a wet paper towel along this clay to make it seal better.


45 minutes and the 5 piece mold will be finished.


Cheers, Wendy



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[ This Message was edited by: danlovestikis 2018-02-21 19:02 ]


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-22 4:04 pm   Permalink

PART FIVE of making the Sacramento Crawl mug mold for 2018.

If the time comes when Dan refuses to lift the molds for me I'll have to retire from clay. But so far he is willing to help. I make big thick molds.


He removes the first slab from the bottom.


Turned on the side he lifts off the next slab and the volcano went with it!


I pulled it loose and all was fine. I strip of clay pulled off the sculpt but it was easily removed. Not due to an undercut.


Every piece turned out just fine. I have a good mold for the crawl mug.


For two weeks I ran two fans 24/7 and the mold pieces remained wet even though I also rotated the sides closest to the fans each day.


So I took the mold inside where it's much warmer. A week later the mold was dry.


Molds must completely dry before they are used. This "cures" the mold so that it is strong and will last a long time when casting.
Next I will begin to pour the mold to make the mugs. Wendy

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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7893
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2018-02-22 7:52 pm   Permalink

Thought that monkey looked like Mike


You might need a wind storm to dry that


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-23 07:29 am   Permalink

hang10tiki I think Mike would laugh and take acceptation to your comment!

========================================

The mold for the Sacramento Crawl mug is finished and it is time to pour the first volcano mug.

The straps have been placed to hold all the pieces together. Dan is about to pour in the slip and I'm going to pound the mold so that there will not be any trapped air bubbles. Air Bubbles can crack your mug when it fires.


Another good way to prevent trapping air is to pour it in slowly.


Once he gets it to the top he can pour faster just to fill up the large opening. I made this large area to hold slip so that I don't have to top it off as water is sucked out by the mold. I want the entire volcano to be the same thickness so the slip level must always be higher than the sides of the mug.


I have little clay dams at the sides where the mold pieces come together. They didn't meet up well at the top. I fix that with a bit of clay.


After on hour it has lowered this much. I keep the slip in this mug for three hours. My mugs are thick and heavy and meant to last.


When Dan pours out the excess slip he is careful not to fill up the entire opening. If it fills it makes a suction that collapses the mug inside. I call that the glug glug because that's what you hear if it starts. So it's good to have someone watching when you lower the heavy mold.


For this thick mug I will leave the mold upside down for at least four hours before I open it.


This is when the fun begins. We try to do one mug every day when we will be home for those hours of pouring to emptying.

Thank you for watching, Wendy
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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7893
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2018-02-23 08:06 am   Permalink

Time for the Dan-0 workout show

 
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zerostreet
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Joined: Feb 06, 2010
Posts: 2308
From: http://www.zerostreet.com
Posted: 2018-02-24 09:34 am   Permalink

Awesome process pics, as always, Wendy!

 
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Hamo
Grand Member (first year)  

Joined: Aug 22, 2016
Posts: 574
From: Colorado (via Iowa)
Posted: 2018-02-24 10:27 pm   Permalink

Wow, those “before and after” pictures of the slip reservoir really shows how much moisture the mold absorbs. That seems to work much better than adding a funnel and clay dams like you’d done in the past.

Quote:

On 2018-02-22 16:04, danlovestikis wrote:
If the time comes when Dan refuses to lift the molds for me I'll have to retire from clay. But so far he is willing to help. I make big thick molds.


Maybe before retiring completely, you could try smaller mugs requiring smaller, more manageable molds?


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-25 07:34 am   Permalink


hang10tiki I have reached the max in mug size for the crawl. Then next one will have to start the way to downsizing. Poor Dan!

zerostreet your page is the same as mine. We both love to share what we work on. Your deck of cards is beautiful.


Hamo the funnel system is for really tiny molds that were made by Gecko. I try to always make this large reservoir on my large molds.
Next years crawl mug will have to be smaller. Dan's at his lifting max with this one.

=================================

Part Seven for the Sacramento Crawl mug for 2018. Opening the mold is tricky. I have to figure out the best order for removing the pieces because there are locks that hold them together.

The first piece we removed was the bottom. This was easy to choose.


The cast looks fine. The first mugs out will have plaster residue which will eventually go away.


Next we lay the mold down on the three piece side and Dan lifted, straight off, the next large slab and exposed the front of the mug.


No undercuts. I do see where there are clay lumps on the face I will have to clean off. This happens when there are air bubbles in the plaster.


Now it's time to deal with the reservoir at the top.


I use a sharp knife and cut it off. Later when plaster residue is no longer sticking I will save this clay for my Wish List projects.


Next I just pulled the two side pieces away from the middle. Looks like the mold is a success. No undercuts. There are a couple of ways to remove the mug from this last piece. I forgot to take photos so I'll do that today.


We cast a mug at 6 am each morning. Sometimes later. Then after a day working on the Wish List we open the mold and I clean the mug. If I keep going at one per day I will have all the mugs cast in around 85 days. This year I may have to make a few more.

Cheers, Wendy


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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7401
Posted: 2018-02-25 08:14 am   Permalink


hang10tiki made a video for us and it's time for a re-run. Thank you hang10tiki this is so much fun for us. Wendy and Dan



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAwfpXLiU1E&feature=youtu.be
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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7893
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2018-02-25 4:49 pm   Permalink

Mug looks great
Glad u like the video


 
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