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Tiki Central Forums » » Creating Tiki » » Other Crafts » » Wendy Cevola 02/21/18 Sacramento Crawl Mug making the mold is completed.
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Wendy Cevola 02/21/18 Sacramento Crawl Mug making the mold is completed.
Hamo
Grand Member (first year)  

Joined: Aug 22, 2016
Posts: 400
From: Colorado (via Iowa)
Posted: 5 days ago; 10:08 pm   Permalink

Wow; that mug looks like it’s the size of a gallon milk jug. Does the texture of the volcano cause any undercuts?

 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7152
Posted: 4 days ago; 09:54 am   Permalink

HopeChest it just takes practice. Each time I do one the next one is easier. I'm so happy that I have done enough projects that I can remember how I did the last one.

Hamo and almost that heavy. That will change as they dry out. The texture is so shallow that there's no problem as long as I put the mold piece straight off. If I rounded a corner they that would all smear off.

===============================================

Here is my favorite part to share, the making of the mold for the Sacramento Crawl mug for 2018. This will take a number of days to post each part. There are so many steps and I want to teach everyone how to do it without making all the mistakes I have made.

I've had one lesson in mold making and that's all it took to figure the rest out. That lesson and all the steps are on page one of this thread.


Plaster sticks and is hard to remove so we always use a tarp on the floor.


I measured the height of the volcano to determine the height and width of the floor of the mold box that I will need. At least two inches on the sides and four at the top. I'll show you that as we proceed.


This shows the wooden sides and the c-clamps that we use to make the box.


Years ago I found these foam blocks at TRUs. I can cut them with a saw knife as needed. They save me a lot of time.


First I put a layer under the volcano. I also raised the top end so that it is level. Then I fill in at the bottom where another mold piece will be made. At the top I am making an opening where the slip will pour into the mold.


Here's another view.


I cut up a bunch of clay to use next.


I press the clay on top of all the blocks.


I cover all of the blocks and bring the clay right up to the volcano. I also pressed snakes of clay along all the seams of the box. Once this is done I run a wet paper towel along the seams and any place that the clay touches the box or the volcano. This make the connection less likely to leak.


Here is another view. The dents in the clay become locks between pieces of the mold so that they hold in place.


AS SOON AS YOU BRING OUT THE BAG OF PLASTER BE SURE TO HAVE YOUR FACE MASK IN PLACE. DO NOT REMOVE IT FOR THE REST OF THE TIME YOU ARE IN THE GARAGE OR WORKING WITH THE PLASTER. IT WILL ENTER YOUR LUNGS AND HARDEN NEVER TO COME BACK OUT AGAIN. COPD IS NOT JUST FROM SMOKING.

I love watching the sculpture disappear under the plaster.


I am always aware of where the plaster is hitting. You don't want the stream to break loose any connections between soft clay and the sculpture.


Almost gone. This top slab should be at least 2 inches thick.


I checked the thickness and noticed that I hadn't gotten the mix just right between water and plaster. It should be a tiny bit thicker on my hand. We call it the buttermilk test. But since I'm making the slab so thick it will most likely be just fine.


Dan cleans the mixer and all the buckets as fast as each step is completed. Wearing his mask and I am too.


It takes around 45 minutes for the plaster to set up in the summer, a little longer in the winter. Once it is set I carve the name of the piece and the date. I do this on each piece.


We did this first piece on one day because it is the hardest piece to do and then we went to work very early the next day.


So imagine us cleaning up and watching TV for the night. One piece done and four more to go.

Wendy




[ This Message was edited by: danlovestikis 2018-02-18 10:28 ]


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7152
Posted: 3 days ago; 08:49 am   Permalink

Part Two of making the mold for the Sacramento Crawl mug 2018.

The box has been removed.


We put on a strap so that we can flip it over onto the mold piece we cast the day before. You don't want the sculpt to ever come loose from the mold pieces until the mold is finished.


Next I remove all the blocks. I had a piece of bubble wrap under the mug to prevent losing any detail.


Then I pulled off the clay except under the top block. This stays put and will be covered in clay. This is the opening into the mold where the slip is poured into the mold.


Ready to go with the next mold pieces.


With all of the blocks and clay removed it's time to use mold soap. I always do four layers. Each one soaks in and then I blot with a paper towel and do it again. This is poison so wear gloves and of course we haven't ever taken off our masks.


Now I begin to build the dam. I want to pour plaster to make two pieces at the same time. The Dam is designed so that these two pieces will be able to pull straight off.


Ariel view!


Looking at the other side.


Here is the bottom of the mug.


Here is the top of the mug.


Next I added the snakes at all the seams and sealed them with a wet paper towel. Also note that the mold piece is now the bottom of the box.


I started to worry that this piece might not pull straight off without damaging the texture so


I began to build up some clay to block the plaster from going on this area. Mold pieces can be any shape you want, think puzzle.


Once this area was built up to the top we mixed the plaster and poured in in on


both sides.


Now it firms up over 45 minutes. Two pieces left to go. Wendy

_________________


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7152
Posted: 2 days ago; 09:00 am   Permalink

PART THREE OF MAKING THE MOLD FOR THE SACRAMENTO CRAWL 2018

Once the two side pieces are hard I am able to dig out the soft clay dam.


Now the mug is again exposed and ready for the fine tuning.


I use a chisel to sharpen up the edges so that the next piece won't have any thin spots.


I first put a wet paper towel down to catch the plaster pieces that come off.


All cleaned up and ready to have


4 layers of mold soap applied and the plaster so that the piece in-between will not stick.


Next I use this 2 cup container to figure out how much plaster to mix. It is close to 1 of water to 2 of plaster.


I put all the water into the bucket and then as Dan mixes I slowly sprinkle in the plaster. Every so often he turns off the mixer and I stick in my hand to check to see if the consistency is that of butter milk. I also squish up any lumps I feel.


Now it's time to pour it into the crevasse.


I always have a plastic bag ready in which to pour any excess.


Now I wait for it to harden while


Dan cleans up the mess.


When it is hard we remove the box and


I use a rasp to round the edges and to flatten this side that has three pieces.


One more piece to go. Cheers, Wendy


_________________


 
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hang10tiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2010
Posts: 7553
From: Las Vegas
Posted: 2 days ago; 8:03 pm   Permalink

Dang
That’s a ton of work
Made me tired

What’s the story with that downward climbing monkey?






[ This Message was edited by: hang10tiki 2018-02-20 20:08 ]


 
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danlovestikis
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 7152
Posted: Yesterday; 7:01 pm   Permalink

hang10tiki you are so right. No one enjoys making molds. The monkey was made by MadDogMike to decorate VampiressRN's room at Tiki Oasis a few years ago. He also made a plane. We got to bring them both home to decorate our garage and man cave.

============================

PART FOUR making the mold for the Sacramento Crawl 2018 in October.

First I remove the soft clay that formed the opening for the mold.


I make this opening large so that I can have it hold a lost of extra slip that will disappear inside as the mold sucks out the water. This way I don't have to keep returning to top off the slip.


The first mold pieces are held together with a strap. When the last (bottom) piece is poured it will level out so the mold won't look so wonky.



I use a cantaloupe scoop to make more locks that will keep the last piece from slipping.


I coat the plaster with four layers of mold soap and blot between. This is poison so gloves should be worn if you think you might touch it. Also a mask should be worn but we never take ours off on a mold day.


My wooden mold sides are not tall enough to this last piece so I took wood and placed it around the mold to support the sides.


I put the box together on top of the wood supports.


Here's how it looks.


We mix the plaster together. I measure the water and then slowly sprinkle in the plaster until it's just like buttermilk.


We have two buckets one with water that is for mixing the plaster and one that I use to wash my hands and Dan runs the mixer in to clean off the plaster before it hardens.


In this photo you can see the clay snakes I put at all the seams and around the edges where the mold is against the wooden box. This prevents leaks which are a nightmare. I also run a wet paper towel along this clay to make it seal better.


45 minutes and the 5 piece mold will be finished.


Cheers, Wendy



_________________


[ This Message was edited by: danlovestikis 2018-02-21 19:02 ]


 
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