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Tiki Central Forums Creating Tiki Other Crafts Whystler's WIP Thread (cannibals printed and based)
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Whystler's WIP Thread (cannibals printed and based)
LoriLovesTiki
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 03, 2011
Posts: 915
From: NJ
Posted: 2012-07-09 4:54 pm   Permalink

Very interesting technique. I love learning about new things. Cool!!!

 
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Whystler
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-09 6:55 pm   Permalink


Thanks guys,

Here's a new head pendant/ornament I'm working on. It's supposed to be a cannibal. I noticed that there is a cannibal style within this tiki genre, and that it often includes the use of skulls. I like skulls. You like skulls. They like skulls ... so here's a tiki cannibal design munching on a skull. This is a 3D render from the program I use...



As always, feedback is appreciated,

-Whystler


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (7 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7363
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-07-09 8:51 pm   Permalink

I like him ~ he's got tusks!

 
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Whystler
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-09 9:07 pm   Permalink

Gotta crunch through dem skullz wif somethin!

-Whystler


 
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AlohaStation
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Sep 27, 2004
Posts: 2156
From: So FL
Posted: 2012-07-10 06:17 am   Permalink

The 3D programs and printer should allow for more open space in you structure. Why are you making the recessed areas so shallow? ie: eyes of the skull, the inside of the mouth... What is the hole in the top for? Not trying to bust your chops just questions.

 
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danlovestikis
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jun 17, 2002
Posts: 4862
Posted: 2012-07-10 06:46 am   Permalink

I think I saw this process in a science fiction movie years ago. They were making weapons! This is really special and you are really good at it. How large an item can it make? Wendy
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Whystler
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-10 08:11 am   Permalink

Quote:

On 2012-07-10 06:17, AlohaStation wrote:
The 3D programs and printer should allow for more open space in you structure. Why are you making the recessed areas so shallow? ie: eyes of the skull, the inside of the mouth... What is the hole in the top for? Not trying to bust your chops just questions.



No problem! Thanks for the questions! If you can imagine a table printed layer by layer, and the first crosssection is the feet. Moving up and up and up, until the next crosssection is the flat top of the table. Imagine what would happen when you try to print this next layer with nothing under it - quite a mess with filament spilled into empty space and no support .

With a powder technology, where each layer is a layer of powder and the crosssection is built by solidifying certain areas of powder, then the un-solidified powder always acts as a support. But this is not the case for extruded filament printers.

So what we do with the table, is turn it upside down and print it from the top to the bottom. And also, in a pinch, we can gear the machine to actually print support. However, this can be a big waste of plastic, and also very hard to tear, pick, carve out of a model. If I'm gonna carve a model anyway, heck I might as well carve it out of wood

So this is why we try to avoid extreme overhangs. I can handle a little bit, and also I can handle picking off a little bit of support material. But if I were to go quite deep, like empty the mouth cavity, then it would not only be a pain to remove the support, but also compromise the integrity of the model's surface with roughened surfaces and the liklihood of breakage.

Hope this helps you understand!

Oh the hole in the top - funny you should ask that. Originally, the hole in the top was to create a sort of "woggle" situation, where the pendant could be threaded through the middle with a bead at the bottom. To make the pendant lie flat, I decided to add a hole through each side instead. The hole down through the center is a remainder of its history. But also - the hollower I can make a model, the better opportunity I have later for "polishing", if I so choose. I use a solvent to smooth the piece, and if the model is quite thick, the solvent seeps inside of it, essentially melting it from within. However, if it is more hollow, there is less chance this will happen.

-Whystler


 
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Whystler
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-10 08:14 am   Permalink

Quote:

On 2012-07-10 06:46, danlovestikis wrote:
I think I saw this process in a science fiction movie years ago. They were making weapons! This is really special and you are really good at it. How large an item can it make? Wendy




Hi Wendy! Hmm, no weapons for me

My printer can go about 13.5 cm high .. that's 5 1/3 inches. It's about 5 1/2 inches wide and long also.

Of course, it's not the size that counts ...

-Whystler


 
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bavtech
Tiki Centralite

Joined: May 03, 2011
Posts: 66
From: Herald, CA
Posted: 2012-07-10 12:18 pm   Permalink

What model of 3d printer are you using? Makerbot? Reprap?

This is something I have really been wanting to do for awhile. You can make so many things with a 3d printer.

I have heard that the DIY 3d printers tend to need a lot of maintenance to keep operational. What is your experience in setup and use?

THanks


 
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Whystler
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-10 10:22 pm   Permalink

Here is a number of the pendants done in different earthy shades. I'm curious about a couple of things.

1. What are your favourite and second favourite shades?

2. Do you prefer the simple stained version, or the one painted with colours? You can compair the ends, as they both have the same backgroud/base colour.



-Whystler


 
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Whystler
Tiki Centralite

Joined: Jul 07, 2012
Posts: 41
Posted: 2012-07-10 10:29 pm   Permalink

Quote:

On 2012-07-10 12:18, bavtech wrote:
What model of 3d printer are you using? Makerbot? Reprap?

This is something I have really been wanting to do for awhile. You can make so many things with a 3d printer.

I have heard that the DIY 3d printers tend to need a lot of maintenance to keep operational. What is your experience in setup and use?

THanks



Hey Bavtech - I use a printer called the "UP!" printer by pp3dp. The DIY printers do tend to need maintenance and tinkering. It's all part of the pioneer's road, I suspect. There is a lot to learn through trial and error for certain. What I like about the state of home printers at the moment, is that you *can* tinker a bit. It's like the old days ... your toaster broke down, you could fix it in your workshop by taking it apart and figuring it out. You might have to order a part to replace, but you could do it by undoing a few screws.

-Whystler


 
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MadDogMike
Grand Member (7 years)  

Joined: Mar 30, 2008
Posts: 7363
From: The Anvil of the Sun
Posted: 2012-07-11 11:35 am   Permalink

Whystler, I like numbers 1,2 & 4. #4 has a nice driftwood look to it.

 
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VampiressRN
Grand Member (8 years)  

Joined: Nov 23, 2006
Posts: 5772
From: Sun City Lincoln Hills (NorCal)
Posted: 2012-07-11 12:56 pm   Permalink

Nice job...I like #1&2 best. Appreciate you sharing the process...very interesting.
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Gene S Morgan
Tiki Socialite

Joined: Jul 18, 2011
Posts: 342
From: Midwest the navel of the USA
Posted: 2012-07-11 8:08 pm   Permalink

Great work ... It is good to see something by a real 3D artist. I really appreciate your explanation of how a 3D printer works. I always thought it was magic. Thanks for starting this thread ... I think I might learn something.

Your painting is excellant. I like 2 and 3 but I suspect 5 will be the most popular. Good detail. One question, is there a hole all the way through the center of the model? If that is true it could have a chord pass through it like an oversized bead. Just a thought.


 
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Beachbumz
Grand Member (first year)  

Joined: Jan 09, 2008
Posts: 1050
From: Kihei, Maui
Posted: 2012-07-11 8:22 pm   Permalink

Nice Work! #2, #4 for me.. I saw one of those 3d printers on Kickstarter.com, Too Cool! I can think of all kinds of things I'd print up in 3D!
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